It is not cooling cool enough. Temp is not 46 degrees in refrigerator and 7 in Freezer
Most likely the=> Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 and High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069 need to be replaced. Heater is burned out.
High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069
Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055
Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
Check My video. That will help You to understand what might be wrong with Your fridge. I replaced here Evaporator fan motor and main relay board. But I had to take the whole fridge a part. Hope that helps!
SOURCE: Profile refrigerator section not cooling
We are not sure what precipitated the temperature swing up; however, within about an hour of emptying quite a lot of foodstuffs from top and bottom sections of the unit, I felt the cold air start to flow out of the rear vent. Within two hours, the upper section had dropped to about 50 degrees and by the next morning to 36. The freezer seemed to recoved on its own too, having risen to almost 8 degrees and then recovering to 0. Just patience and a smaller food payload?
SOURCE: GE Profile Refrigerator (Model #20) w/freezer on the bottom
If the problem disappears (for a while) when the freezer reaches 32F, then I know what the problem is.
The GE Profile refrigerators (and likely other models as well) often don't defrost properly, especially in humid climates. So they can develop
ice buildup internally, especially if the air vents at the back of the freezer are
blocked by frozen food. Once that happens, that ice can
interfere with the cold air circulation booster fan that runs when the
freezer temperature is too warm. Then you get a LOUD buzzing noise
from the fan blades, as they bang into the ice.
The immediate "solution" is to be sure nothing blocks the air vents, and then to melt the ice that interferes with the
fan. You can turn the fridge off for a while (with the food removed so
it doesn't spoil), and/or get a hair dryer and heat the inside back of the
freezer, until the ice melts and falls away from the fan. (Just be careful
not to block the nozzle of the hair dryer, or it may burn out
from overheating!)
But
the ultimate solution is to buy another refrigerator, one that is NOT
a GE! And that makes me sad, because GE used to make GREAT
refrigerators. My last GE refrigerator is nearly 20 years old, and still works well, and it does so QUIETLY.
SOURCE: GE side by side fridge not cooling enough Freezer side was still
check see if you have frost build up in the freezer back wall you may have defrost problem
SOURCE: GE Profile Freezer not cold enough
VACUMM THE COILS UNDERNEATH THE THE FRIDGE THEY MAY BE CLOGGED WITH LENT AND DUST...... HOPE THIS HELPS
SOURCE: GE Profile PSC25 won't cool past 45 degrees
With that model that is a sign that defrost is not happening on time or the beginning of the problem. Temperatures in fresh food compartment above 38 are not safe. Look into the back of the freezer compartment and let me know if you see a frost line buildup. If yes it would be a good idea to manually defrost the freezer so you can remove the rear panel and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. It's also important that with this model that the problem be resolved quickly. I can help you if you want. The defrost heater will be easy to see if burned out because it has a glass tube around the heating element. If you replace the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Fan motors going bad on that refrigerator seem to always damage the control board and if the board is replaced the the fan motor should also. Let me know if you want me to help you, Thanks, Sea Breeze
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