Question about Cobra 29 LTD CB Radio

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The wiring came off and don't know howe they go by color it'got5 places to salder wires are r/b/or/b

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If your asking about a Cobra radio then these links will have the pin-outs plus wiring color code for different mic's.
I had to guess what you was asking for as your question was kinda vague. And a Cobra 29 is a 4 pin mike, not 5 pin.
The 148 - 142 were 5 pin. I'll include it also.
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/cobra/148gtl/index.htm Cobra 29LTD ST 29WX ST

Posted on Nov 03, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Repair job continued


7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
color-wheel-cover.jpg
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
color-wheel-wires.jpg 8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
cover-removal.jpg 9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
color-wheel.jpg 10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
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