Good day my amp 1250.1 is saying service it plays for a while then says service ? Then it cuts off and plays again until I raise the volume again

sounds like the "click" is a relay switching from closed to open position thus cutting off the amp. try to turn down the input volume on the amp.

Sounds like an overheating issue. Most car receivers have heat sinks at the rear to dissipate heat, but if there is little or no rear clearance for the unit the heat may build up and the unit goes into a self protection mode and shuts down.

The vibration from the bass is cutting off the amp. it is a loose wire causing this issue. you can also get a stabilizer that will stop the vibrations from causing this issue.

Are you sure you getting enough power to push everything. I have seen when the voltage is too low coming in, the amps will shut down so they don't overheat. Once they've cooled off and the volume level is lowered they will kick in again. Low voltage and a heavy draw will create massive amounts of heat.

CHECK ALL YOUR SPEAKER CABLES YOU MAY HAVE A PINCHED OR PUNTCHURED SPEAKER CABLE. IF ALL YOUR WIRES ARE RAN ALREADY GO INTO SPEAKER SETTING GO TO SPEAKER CONF, WITH RADIO PLAYING, AND START RAISING Hz IF ITS A SPEAKER CABLE PROBLEM IT SHOULD CUT OFF WHEN UR RAISING THAT SPEAKER Hz. IF IT CUTS OFF WHILE RAISING THE Hz TAKE ONE SPEAKER CABLE STRAIT FROM RECIEVER TO THAT SPEAKER THEN TRY RAISING IT AGAIN. GOOD LUCK

just a tad is all that it takes to throw it in protect mode so check the gain and the cross over and make sure they are set at a decent level and see if that works a little bit

you could have too small of wiring going to the amp for one.. you need to check the ohm load that you have the subs wired at to the amp... this is a HUGE reason for amps not putting out like they should... If it's low of an ohm load for the amp then the amp will act funny and shut off a lot... if you leave it like that it can fry the amp.

A couple of possibilities: Bad solder on power regulators (attached to main heat sink) or cooling fan may not be turning on when volume is raised.

The very FIRST thing to check is to make certain ALL of your speakers have an IMPEDENCE of 8 OHMS. (JVC - and others - say SIX ohms, but 8 is the "standard" you should use.) Virtually all speakers of even modest quality will include this specification on a label on the back of the speaker. You CANNOT run more than (2) TWO speakers with 4 OHMs impedence on ANY amplifier (technical discussion too long!) [NOTE: The internal overload protection system you mention is designed to help prevent permanent damage. However, you cannot re-set these systems yourself. Your dealer or authorized JVC service center must do this. Note, though, that if you have attempted to "cheat" the system several times, damage CAN be done that requires servicing.] But, before you take the unit in for service, there is one more "test": check for shorted and/or mis-connected/disconnected speaker cables/wires. Visually inspect connections at the receiver and speakers first. You might find something obvious! If everything looks okay, then disconnect ALL of the speakers; and reconnect and test them one at a time (at relatively low volume.) For example, reconnect the left front speaker, test the system; THEN add the right front, test the system,and so on, ADDING one more speaker each time - FIRST MAKING SURE EACH OF THEM HAS AN IMPEDENCE OF AT LEAST 8 OHMS! IF there is a short (or bad speaker) this will help isolate it. Hopefully one of these "fixes" will work for you. GOOD LUCK!

is the output signal distorted? if not one of the subs could be damaged subs are capable of playing even when damage ,try them 1 at a time to see what happens.