Solenoid valve kicks in, compresor, pump, but fan does not and machine stops

Hello Barbara, I have one of these dishwashers and this is what happens. There is a drip tray in the bottom of the machine that catches any leaked water. There is a float switch in the drip tray that detects water in the tray. If there is water in the tray, the float switch turns on the drain pump. This will immediately pump all of the water out of the machine and keep the pump running until you remove the water from the drip tray. The pump only pumps out the machine but does not pump from the drip tray. Also the pump will keep running even if the door is open or if the machine cycle is stopped. The only way to stop the pump is to turn off the electricity supply. But also turn off the water supply at the same time, because if the valve that feeds water into the machine is faulty, it will fill the machine till it overflows and if the power is off the float valve cannot turn on the drain pump. On this machine, the solenoid valve that let\'s water into the washer is at the end of the inlet pipe when is connects to the water supply. It is powered by line voltage (230 volts in our case). If this is faulty, it can be replaced with a commercial solenoid valve. The is a two core cable running inside the outer plastic pipe on the inlet pipe. This carries the power to the solenoid valve.
To empty the water from the drip tray, remove the panel from the front of the washer. It is below the front door and has two screws on each end. When you remove this you will see a hole on the left that is big enough to put your finger through and feel if there is water in the tray. If there is, push through a small plastic pipe and suck out the water. It does not take much water to switch on the float valve, maybe the door was not closed properly and some water leaked into the bottom of the unit.
I gained the above knowledge by bitter experience.

The compressor could be bad there is two ways to tell with an ohm meter check each lead off the compressor and to ground for continunity or a megometer . You can always try a hard start kit. It is a super capicator that multiplies starting voltage. Have you checked all connections? There might be a low\ high Pressure switch in the referigent lines if that is bad it won't allow the unit to start. Also is it a heat pump or straight a/c the heat pumps have circut control boards in the unit that control everything

Hope this helps your out. I know the diagram and locator is a bit blurry but hopefully it gets what you need.
Drivers kick panel:
Front wiper 20A - Front wiper system Cigar 15A- Cigarette lighter Audio 10A- Audio, remote control mirror Air Bag 10A -Air bag diagnostics Stop lights- 15A -Rear brake light, high mounted stop light ECU B+ 10A - Shift lock actuator, transaxle controle module, radio, engine control module Room 10A - Interior light, clock, ignition key reminder, rear cargo area light switch ABS 10A- Anti lock brake system control unit ECU IG1 10A - Transaxle control module, shift lock actuator, ABS control unit, DRL unit Meter 10A - Instrument panel, back-up switch, electronics time control module, inhibit switch Turn signal 10A- Hazard switch ,front and rear turn lights, turn indicator IGN1 20A - Ignition switch ABS 30A- ABS pump motor TNS 30A- Tail light, license plate light COOL/FAN 30A- Cooling fan Cond/Fan 20A- A/C condenser fan Starter 15A- Start signal , Fuel pump Blower 25A- Blower Motor SR/ACC 10A - Ignition switch Hazard 15A - Hazard and turn signal light D/Lock 25A- Door locks ABS 30A - Anti lock brake system control P/W RH 20A- Power window motor right hand P/W LH 20A- Power window motor left hand IGN2 25A- Ignition Switch
Engine compartment :
Head 25A- headlights IG 2 30A- Ignition switch IG coil 15A -Ignition coil, condenser,generator IC regulator, diagnostic connector. O2 down 10A- Rear O2 sensor O2 up 10A- Front O2 sensor Fuel pump 10A -Fuel pump unit Injector 10A -Fuel injector ,camshaft positioning sensor, purge solenoid valve, EVAP, IAC actuator, Mass Airflow sensor, EGR stepper motor. fuel pump relay coil, vehicle speed sensor. A/Con 10A - A/C compressor controls, cooling fan BTN 30A- Brake light , high mounted stop light. Tail light LH 10A- License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Tail light RH 10A-License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Head low 15A- Headlight Head Hi 15A-Headlight Horn 15A- Horn

Inside kick panel

There is a small solenoid on the bottom of the unit that operates a valve between the drain and the rest of the machine. That is probably not changing the valve back to pump inside the machine the motor running you hear is probably draining the machine again. When you run it let it fill then when the motor kicks on watch the drain hose under the sink if it jumps or you can feel water running through it the solenoid needs to be replaced. if you need further clarification I can upload photos tommorrow

Check floater valve.

Inside the unit. On the floor. Looks like and small upside down cup.

If it is jammed in the up position it will stop the machine. Lift, clean underneath. It should drop and the machine will run.

The float valve stops the machine from over filling.

Could also be clog in the drain filter. Remove the cover from the drain inside the unit. look for clog in the filer of the drain.

If none of the above it is the timer. The timer tells the unit what to do (fill, run, empty). If it is not working the drain function will not run.

Adrian

You most likely have a faulty inlet valve/solenoid. If it's stopping to a trickle, it's most likely closing before it's supposed to. Also, you may have a defect in your load selection switch. There is a hose that goes from that switch to the inlet valve. When there is so much "pressure" from the water in the tub, the switch kicks signals the valve to close.

When you heard the click and the compresor stops ,check if it's very hot , if yes the compresor is of on overload and this could happend because 1 the condenser coil is dirty ,2 the relay is bad or 3 the compresor has a problem .Also check if behind the kick plate there's a timer (some units have it there or next to the cold control ) that could cause a problem too.

If the compresor is trying to start and it won't you 'll heard a click and the compresor will be very hot ,that means that the relay is bad or the compresor is stuck or burned and needs to be replaced, but first before replacing the compresor try with the relay (no more than $20).But if the lights and fan inside the fridge work and the compresor won't start and is not hot ,the problem is in the cold con trol (you can put a jumper wire between the two wires to the cold control and if the compresor starts thats your problem) after all this if still the compresor won't start could be that the timer is stock in the defrost position.

Cut power for minutes, and see if this can stop and reset the machine.

If the machine does not reset, then you need to test the pump and valve solenoid, to ensure it is not stuck on drain position, by energizing the solenoid.

If the pump solenoid is fine, and pump opens and close, then the problem is usually the control panel, rarely can also be a contact on wiring harness to the pump.

Eneter model number here to find parts and diagrams for your appliance.

Here also parts and repair help.