Old Garland Propane Gas Stoves. Are the pilots today standing or are they electric start?

They must be converted. New burner orifaces for burners, griddle, and oven and a new regulator for the gas valve.

The recommended stove for large group camping I advise you to purchase the liquid-fuel stove.

Is the gas turned on to the stove? Is the pilot light lit?
Any special circumstances surrounding this incident? like this stove is new or old. Or you are new to gas stoves etc.

First check the book to see if you have a igniter on this stove if so it takes a moment or two to get started, if not you need to light pilot
make sure gas is getting to burner when called for by the thermostat or oven control..

Hello. It sounds like you are able to relight it, and all is good till the next time. I would suggest replacing the thermocouple for the oven, and cleaning the pilot. The pilot is probably dirty, they draw dust into them while burning, and thermocouples are reasonably priced. You could be having a problem with your pilot safety, the part with the red button that you push to relight the pilot, however it is easier, and cheaper to get a new t'couple,and clean the pilot first.

You can go to: www.garland-group.com or call them for parts 1.800.424.2411. There are many part suppliers online that can get what you need.

Hope that helps, and thank you.

this is almost impossible to do and you will be changing the nsf rating if you have a fire no coverage

I am not sure of the model number of my Garland gas range (propane) I bought it in 1970 from a farmer who had purchased it at a restaurant sale. It is OLD. (so am I) I have had trouble for years with the ovens going off at times and not relighting immediately. The right oven especially.
In the last 35 years I have had the thermocouplers replaced twice, the safety valves twice, and new pilots twice. The last time these were replaced was 6 months ago by a repairman who said this was the problem. Very spendy. The ovens still would go out. I had a thought (and related it to the repairman) that perhaps there wasn't enough air circulation to the oven burners (the top burners and grill worked fine) He said there was plenty of air getting to the ovens. Two weeks later I had my son help me move the stove out another 4" from the wall and I have not had one bit of problem with the ovens since.
You can buy new fire bricks for the grill at a heating shop. I am having trouble with the thermostats now, they don't regulate the ovens to coincide with the settings. I will have them replaced next.
Every one thinks I should just get a new stove. No way. This is a great old stove, I love it.

I'm not familiar with Garlands. When I run into a similar problem with other stoves of that vintage (Wedgewoods, etc.) I trace the pilot lines piece by piece, from the manifold to the pilot burner, if necessary opening a connection or two to see where I'm getting gas and where I'm not.

Is there a needle valve for adjusting the pilot flame? Is there gas getting all the way to the pilot burner? When it's the pilot burner itself that's the problem, I take it apart, brush/blow/shake out the crud, and run a small drill (#79 or so) through the orifice.

Use a needle right where the pilot flame comes out. Should do the trick. GOODLUCK!!

We use a Garland from the 1960's and pilot lights ARE scary and should make you nervous. This is why they are no longer allowed in new gas ranges. I mounted an inline gas shut off to the stove where the gas enters (on mine this is right in front on the left side). It turns on and off like a burner and when we are done cooking we simply shut off the gas there. To light the burners or the stove I use one of those long reach lighters. I go to bed knowing that NO gas is coming in.
We love the stove, it makes cooking more fun.
Good Luck!