Circuit breaker is on, but the unit show no power. Could it be a circuit breaker inside the oven?
Not sure about your make , but if 1 half of the unit works ( The top elements in your case) and the oven doesnt, I would suggest that there may be 2 fuses in your meter box ( If the oven is wired across 2 phases) or there may be 2 fuses in the back of the oven and the fuse that protects the oven has failed. If unsure, be safe and get an Electrician or a stove technician to sort it out for you.
SOURCE: beeping, flashing, oven door locked, display shows F-1
F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (this problem is usually the touch pad) F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) BUT you also need to check the Oven Temperature Sensors The Oven Temperature Sensors should read room temperature, 70°F, the resistance is 1000-1200 ohms. make sure you pull off the wires to measure the sensor's resistance and it reads open it is bad. and you will have to replace it too. hope this helps.
SOURCE: the touch pad panel on stove is blank
on the ge range, you need an ERC its the main control for the oven. yes its costly. comes in a kit with a new wire harness
SOURCE: kitchen aid stove problem
Peter,
First...be sure you cut power to the stove before you do anything. This is 220 volts and it can kill you. 220 Volts is based on two different lines of power coming to the stove, each of which is 110 volts...but opposite each other in phase. This may mean that some power to the stove is on and some is not. Let's go on.
I suspect a few things: First, the coil control for the burner is probably finished. What I also suspect is that it opened one of the two breakers (they are usually tied together in the panel and are either 40/50/60 amp units) causing some lights but no action.
What to do: Reset the breakers as a pair by turning them off and on. If one snaps off, you have a problem at the stove. If not,...which I doubt...you're in business.
Let's look at replacing the control. Shut the breakers. Now, take the burned control and remove it. Note the wiring positions if they are not on a plug. If they are terminals, tape the ends. Now, reset those breakers. If the other burners work, replace the control. Take the old one to the parts store. If it doesn't work, look around the burned area for broken wires. Repair and tape them up. Try again. Oh, and don't let anyone touch the stove while you're working with those breakers.
SOURCE: oven sparking problem
i think you will find the power cord is burned this happens if it wasnt tightend up properly and gets loose turn the oven breaker off before you pull it out
SOURCE: Keeps tripping circuit breaker everytime on plug the power cord in
2 common, possible problems. 1 - there is a "short" in the plug - easy fix - replace either the cord or plug - not expensive. 2 - bad control board - not so easy, not so cheap. Is it brand new, used? Also, it could be a bad "internal breaker" - not easy!
Hi Ron - From what you have described if neither the burners nor oven turns on make sure the electrical connecting is 240V. The oven light and clock portions only required 115V. The clock and oven light working may indicate an electrical circuit breaker supplying the range is tripped or a fuse is blown. Confirm household circuit is correct and the range cord is properly wired to the terminal block.
1,151 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×