The spin motor is going but its not spinning i believe the belt popped off how do i open it up to pop it back on

Clicking is fair enough as older machines which dials have a rotary motor driven switch, and also when water inlet valves open and close. Popping though is not so good and often happens when water meets electricity.

see the causes:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen puller+ belt broken replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid swithc broker or open,motor coupler broken,belt broken, and clutch worn,drive motor defective,transmision not shifting properly,basket driven worn.
It spins only with the lid closed lid switch prevent the action to start.
see the diagram

This problem can be caused by condensation. Leave camera and tapes in a warm dry place for a day and try again. If that doesn't help, there may be a tape threading fault. This can be something as simple as a broken drive belt, but still will require professional attention.

there's no belt in the kenmore washers,they have a motor coupling.take out the two screws that hold the top console down.flip up the console it's on hindges,next with a screw driver pop the two metal clips and unplug the lid switch harness that's in between the metal clips,then open the lid and grab the frame,pull the frame to you and up and remove the whole frame.on the bottom you'll see the pump,with a screw driver pop the two metal clips and slide off the pump.take out the two screws and pop the metal clips and slide off the motor.on the back of the motor you'll find the coupling broke,it sounds like alot of work but it takes around 20 minutes to do

It could be your belt or the motor is froze up. The belt is an easy fix.With a flat head screw driver pop the top of the dryer open ( make sure it is un plugged) and check belt around the drum. You should see it right away. If the belt is tight then your motor is shot.

if the motor is spinning but the drum is not then its probably a belt or the transmission. if there is no motor noise it is more than likely the lid safety switch.

It has to drain down below a certain level before the spin will engage so check to make sure its draining all the way. or you can pop the top of the washer lid open (two clips at the front top) to see if something may be jammed in there around the drum. (I use a paint stir stick wooden wedge,and a hammer to pop open those clips.... you might be able to yank it open.

The belt may look fine but it is stretched. The silver stem is the motor shaft. Replace the belt with a genuine one by model #. It will be 20-30% smaller. Check that your brush roll turns freely by hand. Pop the nylon caps off the end to remove hair and thread.

Sounds like your transmission is going bad. usually they will pop the belt when going out. Probably with a service call and the cost of the transmission, you'd do better heading to sears. Sorry to bear the bad news. Good luck.

this is a direct drive,no belts,good washer you won't find any washers built like this anymore,on top console pop off the clips on each side,then remove the two phillips screws,lift the top console,with a regular screw driver stick in into the hole where the clip goes into frame and on top of the clip and push forwards and the clip will pop out,then there's a lid switch a white wire connector on the right top,unplug it,now grab the cabinet and tilt it up and pull back and remove the cabinet.if the motor is humming and it's not draining it sounds like some thing is stuck in the pump or a bad pump,look down and you'll see the pump on the front of the motor,with a screw driver pop off the two clips and slide the pump off,get a piece of wire and stick it into the white connector where you disconnected the lid switch from,this will jump out the switch,set the timer to spin and run it,if the motor spins then you know the pump is jammed or bad.let me know what you find.the pump part is WP3363394