Outlet has power,circuit breaker is good. Has power to machine, able to see light on circuit board inside machine.

Press POWER to turn the washer off.

Unplug the washer from the power outlet or turn the circuit breaker to the unit off.

With the power disabled, press and hold the START/PAUSE button for 5 seconds.

Plug the washer back in, or turn the circuit breaker back on.


Suggest you test the wall receptacle with some other known good appliance e.g. vacuum cleaner.

Did you replace the inverter board?? It is inside the tan plastic box in the bottom of the control panel I think on the right side. That controls the power supply to a good part of the machine and drive system. Has to be a direct short somewhere to trip the breaker.

r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.

Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.

Check to see if any power to that outlet to see if you have some power by plugging in a light or other electrical device. No power? check circuit breaker for Washer electrical outlet. If it pops back, you have a short somewhere. Unplug washer then try circuit breaker again. If the circuit breaker stays on, you have a problem in the Washer. Call Service man or may be cheaper to find a lightly used replacement, or buy new.

Inside your breaker box usually its marked. If not check breakers to see if any are tripped. If non seem tripped your going to have to go one by one. Plug light into outlet to see if it works first. If it dont proceed to test each breaker individually. If it does light up than you have a problem with your washer not the outlet. Also if you have a meter to test the outlet to see if you are getting power. Please contact me back and let me know if the outlet has power. Also please include Make and model of washer also model number of washer. Thank you

There is a main control board on top which may need to be replaced,
if you remove the back top panel there is a tech sheet with a lot of information tucked in there, Suggest you plug something else into outlet to make sure outlet has power, and breaker is still ok,
good luck

Plug a working lamp in the washer power outlet. If it lights, the problem is within the washer (look for a breaker button on the back of the machine). If the lamp doesn't work either, look for a bad breaker, a loose neutral wire connection, or loose wire connection on the breaker. Check the wiring on the washer end as well.

OK everyone, my ears are red. Over the weekend, I gave this another shot, since my warranty repair appointment isn't until next week.

I opened the dryer door (the drum light is off, indicating no power at all) and went to the circuit breaker box, and flipped the washer/dryer breaker back to off and then re-set the breaker again.

When I got to the laundry room - the drum light was on!

So I powered up the unit, and ran the machine. It ran for about one minute, and then went off. So I went back and re-set the breaker again.

Visually, the breakers did NOT LOOK tripped - but flipping the thing off and then on to re-set the breaker worked.

This time, the dryer is working fine. The bad part is: I need to replace the breaker for the second time. So this is NOT a defective dryer, it is a bad electrical supply. I will call the electrician back to make him fix this right. . . . .

Thanks again for all who responded. This is a new unit, purchased on 7/7/2009.

no fuses only control boards.with power off pull the top off and check wires at your power supply board(not the one with buttons). Look for burn or damaged wires. no luck with that, will probably need power board(usually the board that goes out). Call LG and speak to cust service....sometimes will cover the board.

Lg wash machine do not normally have fuses. 90%chance the board is blown. Trace the power to the board. if there is power, boarb is faulty. there should always be am indicating light of a sort when power is applied even if you had other problems.