How do i diagnose the damper assy 241736601

you can get guide from many sites.. i know few
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is co vered
within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete

Most common problem on this refrigerators is that damper door breaks off the motor, so You will need a new damper assy. check this link below, it just an example. GE WR49X10091 Refrigerator Damper Assembly AppliancePartsPros com

buy one
and install it.
it has clamps remove them or unsnap them and .....
access? its in the dash.
the FSM covers all HVAC work , you can get that and read it
or hope that ALLDATA.com covers R&R for the cables.
but will cover access. (huge job on some cars)
working on the dash with out and FSM invites more broken parts.
plastics.
hidden screws and such , and how to get to them are covered in the book.
here is the control panel, pasted


Removal & Installation

1. Remove the upper console panel.
2. Remove the instrument cluster finish panel
3. Release the 2 fitting claws and pull out the heater control assembly.
4. Using a screwdriver, open the claw of the cable clamp and disconnect the defroster damper control cable. NOTE Be careful not to bend the cable wire. If the cable wire bends, the heater control assembly operationally becomes worse.
5. Using a screwdriver, open the claw of the cable clamp and disconnect the air mix damper control cable.
6. Disconnect the connector, remove the heater control assembly. Removal and installation of the control panel

To install:

1. Install the inner cable end of the air mix damper control cable to the heater control lever.
2. Install the outer cable of the air mix damper control cable to the cable clamp. NOTE Be careful not to bend the cable wire. If the cable wire bends, the heater control assembly operationally becomes worse.
3. Operating the heater control knob and check that it properly stops at both ends of MAX. COOL and MAX. HOT and no recoil is identified.
4. Check that the outer cable should not be disengaged (moved) from the heater control assembly when the cable is pulled.
5. Install the inner cable end of the defroster damper control cable to the heater control lever.
6. Install the outer cable of the defroster damper control cable to the cable clamp.
7. Operating the heater control knob and check that it properly stops at both ends of FACE and DEF and no recoil is identified.
8. Check that the outer cable should not be disengaged (moved) from the heater control assembly when the cable is pulled.
9. Connect the connector, install the heater control assembly.
10. Install the instrument cluster finish panel
11. Install the upper console panel.

It is called a blend door you need to replace both the actuator and the door. Follow the instructions at this site to use a product called the Heater Treater, it is avail on Ebay. If you wish to go full OEM you must remove the dash assembly completely and that takes about 12 hours. This is a factory defect and Ford may provide assistance in the repair if you call the factory customer service number and set up a meeting with the field rep fro Ford. I have seen this happen but it is a case by case deal.

I have the same problem. Looking through the freezer section using a mirror, I can see the damper door. I opened it with a hanger wire. It does seem to be behind the styrofoam in the fridge section. Must be a bad damper. I am not up to checking voltages. I will call for service and direct him to the problem. last time all he did was a 1 hour defrost. Maybe the door gets froozen in place? -Bob

The symtoms sound all to common on GE units. Based on your symtoms I suspect the fresh food area is to cold. The damper assy is controled by the motherboard / thermistors. This damper assy adjusts to control the air movement from the freezer. During its cycling it can snap loose when this happens the air from the freezer is uncontroled. Within a few days the fresh food compartment temps can drop below freezing. The drop in temp also can freeze the water reservoir behind the lower crispers and in some cases the water filter. Altho You may have other issue (i.e. filter, bad fill valve assy, motherboard) the above statement happens 70% of the time. Fresh food damper assy part# WR49X10091 est $135.00.
Ric

We had the same problem with the damper assembly. The gap between the fridge and the freezer, where the new assembly was installed was not sealing properly. We added an additional gasket (which actually came with the assembly but we were instructed that we would not need it with our model) and it works perfectly. The seal is very tight and the freezer and fridge are now chilling accurately.

Freezing in cripsersG.E artica:

Models Affected: All 23 25 27 and 29 cubic foot electronic side-by-side refrigerator units with plastic Liners manufactured in 2001 or later. This includes all Profile- (Arctica and Eterna") models Consumers have called with reports of freezing in the Vegetable (middle) pan or the CustomCool M (bottom) pan , frozen water tank or frozen water filter.Freezing in the pans , a frozen water tank or a frozen water filter is caused by excessive airflow from the vents in the tower.

To eliminate these freezing issues , install kit WR49X10045. Follow the instructions included in the kit.






Damper door broken G.E artica:

Affects all 2001 models produced with "M" as the eight letters in the model i.e.: PSS25SGM with serial date code LA4 , MA4 , RA4 , SA4 , TA4 , VA4 , ZA4 & AD4. Freezing happens when damper door breaks leaving the unit with no control over the very cold air entering fresh food compartment from the freezer.

Replace damper door assy , with new damper door kit WR17X11508.

To verify the damper door is broken , remove the light shield and rear light bulb from the top of the refrigerator. Enter the factory diagnostic mode by pushing all four temperature control buttons at the same time. Perform damper motor test (FZ 1 , FF 0). Press any other button i.e. Custom cool or filter reset to start damper test cycle. Shine flashlight through right hand side opening of light assembly to view movement of damper door. To exit test mode (FZ 1 , FF 6). lf damper door assembly needs to be replaced , pull top two shelves out 2 ". Pull rear tower assembly slightly forward with both hands, move to the left and the right to expose the two screws that secure the duct assembly , also remove both screws that secure the duct to the ceiling. Replace with new damper motor assembly WR17X11508.

Good grief! FInd a tech that knows what he is doing. You can replace the plug and/or the jack. Each is a few dollars at most. You can even do it yourself. If you can see where wires went just buy new parts. They are probably available even at Radio Shack.

If any wiring on the control panel was or might have been disturbed, I would want to check that. It may be that something (like a sensor) did not get plugged back in. Otherwise, I would verify that the door switches are working properly and the mounts for them are not loose or damaged. If this is a convection model, also check check the damper, damper motor, and damper switch. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded views, and often service manual portions here: http://www3.sears.com/