Could some help me with factory carb settings on this saw

Adjustment and Tuning of a Chainsaw Carburetor ' Chainsawr

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Carburetor Adjustment for Chainsaws Carburetor adjustment is critical on chain saws and other two-cycle engines. ... These saws have what is called a "fixed jet" which is set from the factory. ... (7) Go back to step (5) and reset the idle speed. ... NOTE: If you do not have a tachometer, set the RPM level so that the saw "four ...

How to Adjust the Air and Fuel on a Stihl Chainsaw ' Home ...

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Return a type A carburetor to its factory setting by turning the "H" screwcounterclockwise until it ... Where Do I Find the Carburetor on My Stihl 017 Chainsaw?

how to adjust carbs on 2 stroke weedeaters and chainsaws ...

Yes I do. Do not over tighten the H and L needles you will ruin the needle seats (clockwise closes the needle jet, counter clockwise opens the needle jet) There is no air mixture needle on a chainsaw carb (2 cycle engine) all are gas mixture needles H - high speed operation, L - low speed operation. [The saw carburetor operates like a 4 barrel carb on a 350 chevy, runs on 2 but kicks in all 4 when you hammer it.] Turn the H needle to 1(one) full turn open (counter clockwise). Turn the L needle to 1 1/4 (one and one quarter) turn open (counter clockwise). NEVER EVER close the H needle to less than 3/4 open or the L needle to less than 1 turn open. If you do you will burn the saw up from lack of oil lubrication. [I have several Jonsereds saws a 52E, 451EV, 49SP, 520SP, 621 race saw, 630, 70E, 70E race saw, 80E and last but not least a 90E. I worked many years for the importer and distributor of Jonsereds as a Territorial Rep. All my saws run like a top. My newest saw is a 1984. I chainsaw carve and cut firewood with all of them year round. In short I like-em, they're the best.] I find that all my saws run the best and strongest with the carb set at around 7/8 turn open on the H needle and just above 1 turn open on the L needle. The idle screw I set last after the saw responds correctly to the carb settings. I quick throttle the saw to make sure the saw picks up RPM and doesn't fade out, put in a log to make sure it maintain tourque under load and not bogg down (tweak the H & L if needed, remembering the 7/8 - 1 1/4 rule I adjust the idle screw to where the saw sound smooth and un-labored at idle. I never let it idle to where the chain moves when it idles. For safety reasons. Hope this helps. EdN

What kind of saw is it???
on average low jet is about 1 1/2 turn counterclockwise out after bottoming out the jet slightly
high jet about 1 turn counterclockwise after bottoming jet out clockwise

hope this helps getting your saw going

Usually you can tune these rather easily.

Turn both adjustment needles clockwise until snug.
Back both out 1 full turn

Now on the L needle, you adjust this while the saw is idling.. 1/4 counter clockwise increments...

The H needle you adjust while pressing the throttle in and holding it in as you turn the needle as well counter clockwise.

In the meantime, I will try and find if they post the actual settings which are more based on the engine capacity/ cc... the model of the particular carburetor will vary saw to saw.

take apart your carb--sounds like your carb diaphram is not installed right the settings should be
1.5 turn out low jet
1 turn out high jet
that should get it running then some fine adjustment once its running

The carb is factory set you need to remove carb you will then see two screws one marked L and the other H with a small hacksaw cut a slot across both screws don't worry about cutting into carb body this can't be helped screw both screws fully in then back them off 1 and 1/4 turns this rough sets high and low running start saw set low speed first adjust screw in or out to get best low running then rev saw to max.and adjust max revs do the same as you did with the low speed screw to obtain max revs this should solve your problem.

basic settings for this saw would be one turn out on both screws, these are base settings so fine adjustment would have to be done, it it will not run at these settings there is somthing else wrong with it.

Basic settings can vary from model to model, a good starting point for most carbs is screw both H and L screw right in ,then back the H screw out 1 turn and the L screw 1 and1/4 turns, the machine should run well enough to fine adjust from there, they are both fuel screws, so the more you unscrew them the richer the saw becomes, always remember if there in another under lying problem adjusting the carb screws will not always help, before any adjustment clean or replace the fuel filter in the fuel tank.

Backing the low or high speed screws on any saw will richen the mixture. Rough settings for most carbs range from 3/4 turn to 1 1/4 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. Backing the screws out 1 full turn will allow starting for most saws as it is only 1/4 turn away from factory rough settings. If the saw is still hard to start then 1/4 turn either way will either help or make it harder to start......doesn't hurt to try a new plug either as sparking outside the combustion chamber doesn't mean the plug will spark when exposed to the mixture and pressure encountered during running.

Start with "H" and "L" 1 turn CCW from lightly seated. Then tune for performance like this.
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. HTH
Lou