My palomar 225amp online it arrived w/ a 250 black faceplate.Amp lks new & pills and board look new. Running a galaxy959 it wrks grt. SWR 1.1 on wilson1000. Lights work, preamp wrks. No transmit?

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Computers to Radio

Various help and videos in the links

https://www.google.com/search?q=Galaxy+DX959+lower+DK

https://www.google.com/search?q=palomar+250+hd+connect+Galaxy+DX959

You don't say how you have the radio mounted or what the standing wave ratio is as it can vary from channel to channel.
First thing to check is that the antenna is not too close to the radio itself. Second, that you have a good ground plane and third, run through the channels with the mic depressed and see if the swr varies. It is also worth trying a different antenna. Some of the stainless whip type are adjusted by simply cutting a little off but if this has been done for a previous radio you may simply need a new antenna to start again with.

If it is made by Palomar and it is a small amplifier, you can bet it is a low drive. Check those transistors. It could have the new Mosfet 655's in which case definitely low drive 3-6 watts input max.

If its in a car or truck use heavy gauge wire to power it. I use a 3ft jumper between the radio and amp. Should use a grounded antenna system. Not a "MAG MOUNT" type. Those can "feed back" rf to your radio and cause problems. If using in the house, a large power supply will be needed.I own a palomar elite 400 hd.It uses every bit of my 30amp power supply. Your hd amp should like the hp radio.

The SWR cannot be changed by rotating this knob. The SWR function allows you to determine the SWR or "match" of the antenna system and transmitter on a specific channel. The entire process must be performed whenever you want to know what the SWR is on a different channel. The SWR/CAL button toggles the meter between the CALIBRATE and SWR modes.
Set the radio to CH1. Press the SWR/CAL button. The radio CAL(ibrate) mode is now selected. Press and hold the mic PTT (or push to talk) button. Rotate the SWR knob as needed to adjust the meter indicator until it is on the SET mark on the dial. The meter is now calibrated for this channel.

While still holding down the mic PTT, press and release the S/RF SWR CAL button to the SWR setting to read the SWR on the meter.



This entire process should be done for Ch 20 and Ch 40. You must go through the CAL procedure for EACH channel before attempting to read the SWR.


Changing the SWR requires that the antenna be lengthened or shortened until such time that the SWR can be reduced no further. Typical SWR across the band may be:


CH1 - 1.5:1, CH20 - 1.1:1, CH40 1.5:1


or


CH1 - 2.2:1, CH20 - 1.7:1, CH40 2.3:1


The "dip" in SWR on CH20 is typical, as the antenna is the perfect length on only one channel - it will be come slightly too long or slightly too short as you tune up or down from CH20. The further away from CH20 you go, the poorer the SWR will be. You can "slide" the dip to any channel you prefer - say CH8. If you tune for lowest SWR on CH8, You might see CH1 with a 1.2:1 SWR, CH8 at 1.1:1 SWR and CH40 at 2.5:1. All are acceptable - sort of. Many manufacturers say up to 2.5:1 or even 3.0:1 matches are ok, There's no reason a quality antenna can't be tuned for optimum SWR in the middle of the band (CH20) to have less than a 2.0:1 SWR on CH1 or CH40, unless there is a ground issues or bad cable / antenna / connection somewhere.


You can view the manual here. I hope this helps & good luck!

Before having a fix on your rig, borrow from a buddy

a SWR meter, measure the power rating of your radio.

It should be having at least a power of 4W with a good SWR of 1.1 to 1.5.


That power would be a match for amp like these:

http://www.cbradiomagazine.com/Amplifier%20Reviews/Palomar%20Elite%20250/Palomar%20Elite%20250%20Review.htm

Hello Randy, do you have a fiberglass or stainless whip? What is your SWR & power meter readings now? --- The stainless whip may be creating a feedback and picking up static from transformers. Do you have a power microphone? If so you need to use a modulation meter to set it for 100% modulation. It could also be causing the crackling, that or your engine alternator.

A 1:1 SWR implies a perfect match between all elements of the antenna system...this is what you want. If an antenna system is not working well, the power reflected by the antenna will travel back through the transmission line and arrive at the output of the transceiver. From a practical point of view, SWR numbers in the range from 1:1 to 1.5:1 are considered to be very good, meaning that the antenna is radiating most of the power sent to it...

I would not recommend tweaking the boards on the realistic radios. You can however tune your whip. Start by making a base coil with some copper wire, 14 gauge will work. Run one end under the whip mount end and then tightly wrap the wire around the base of the whip. Experiment with 20 - 30 wraps for best performance & SWR.

The Astatic 575M6, or the Sadelta MB-4(hard to find) are very good power microphones that will help with modulation and peak power transmissions. Let me know if you need more help with tuning, if the "crackling" is still there.

Here is a link for your radio, in case you don't have one.

http://support.radioshack.com/support_electronics/36554.htm

You can download a Free manual from the following link.( http://www.cbtricks.com/Amp/palomar/300a/index.htm ).Your valuable feedback would be appreciated.Thanks for choosing Fixya.

If you have the Alpine SWR-1222D, that's a dual 2 OHM Sub. So, the way you have it hooked up to the amp ,it's 1 Ohm, and unless your amp can safely operate at 1 OHM, you are better off connecting the voice coils in series so the amp will see 4 OHMS. The link below will show how the connections are made to the amp. Look at example # 1.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500SWR1242.PDF

Hope this helps!

Hello there:
if you go to www.palomar.com and look for the user manual they will have it there ok
best regards mike