I have no power to set. fuse OK. Is this a common fault on this model and has a capacitor gone down?

Common issues are no power reaching set, fuse in set bad, power supply to the set (inside). But if set 12 years old parts may no longer be available.......maybe too old to be a good repair?

follow the next step, use the common sense, God bless you

1. No power to outlet (overload or fault in microwave or other appliance).
2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
4. Defective controller or its power supply.
5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).
Tight any connector. see the picture.

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:

ISSUES:

1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.
2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.
3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.
4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.

Answers to issues:

1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.

2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.

Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.

What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.

3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have to buyand try a board to see if it fixes it or not.

4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.If set is opened at least look for puffed up and bad caps like in thisphoto.

Hello!
If you have used your TV 24/7 for the past year, the issue might be in the power supply. If there are "bloated" capacitors, set will not start up. If you haven't unplug it for a year, it might be staying alive. Once you unplugged the set, those capacitors won't let your set back to normal. That's a big project and requires technical background. If you think you can handle that, open your TV set and inspect TV's power supply board. It will be located near power cord plug or wire. Also, it might be covered by tin shield, which must be removed for further observation. If you see any "bloated" electrolytic capacitors, replace them with same value and voltage. But it might be main board's issue, as well. what is your place's ambient temperature? If it's lower, than 75F, try to warm up the back of the set, before even trying to poke it open. Use hair dryer. First, point it on main board's in/out connectors. Do not overheat! Few minutes might be enough. Then, try to plug the set in and observe the behavior. Any change? turns on? Main board is bad. Same with power supply. If heating up main board area does nothing, try power supply area. If it makes a difference, start looking for bad capacitors.
Good luck,
Let me know results.
Thanks,
Alex.

thir is somecondensers on the tv needs to be changed especialy on pwer supply and vertical circuit it is easy fault but needs technication,,,but first be sure thir is no floresent lamp common with the same supply of the set

In most cases it is the capacitors in he power supply section that have gone out.

Common symtoms are
-shuts down
-takes a long time to come on
-relay clicks
-dead set

You can get capacitors online or you can get a complete kit with instructions and support from www.TvRepairKits.com . Its a failry easy DIY fix.

i have 2 of the power boards now i am struggling with, but there's a small capacitor that has gone on both of mine, it's labelled c5017 and is 10pF according to the service manual and i cannot remember the voltage but i'm using 630V ones to be safe but i think the orginal is much lower, so best to test that cap to see if it's causing the problem

A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition.
The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom.
The only way to determine the real cause is #1 an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound or picture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour.

The educated guess for this make/model is #1comb filter pcb capacitors,#2 vertical o/p ic failure or #3 general power supply or deflection cold solders.

It is very likely that one of the convergence correction chips has gone south on you (either that or a capacitor). What you want to look for is a swollen capacitor , or a burnt resistor near the two large heatsinks on the signal/convergence PCB. The flashing LED is an indication that the power supply has detected a fault, your mission is to determine what that might be. another thing to check out at the fuses on the power supply PCB (these have labels like FXXX were XXX is a number). If you find an open fuse, that will help determine where to look for the fault.

You have leaky filter capacitors in this radio, this is a common fault and these are soldered into a rinted circuit board. Good luck