Removing tensioner assembly

Here are the written instructions, i do not have the pictures, it is a very good set of instructions and clearly written.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Hi navygurlrosi,

On the early 745i's BMW thought it would be a great idea not to have a tensioner for the a/c compressor. You have to first remove the alternator belt, which has a tensioner and requires a T55 torx to release the tension. If you are lucky enough to have a tensioner for the a/c belt, the torx will release this tensioner as well. If there is no tensioner, you can use a shop rag to "walk" the belt off the compressor pulley while turning the crank bolt using a ratchet.. It's sort of like the same processes as replacing a bicycle chain. When you go to put on the new belt, it will seem really short, and may require another set of hands to turn the crank bolt with a ratchet. You will also notice the belt making a stretching noise.

There should be some small plastic trim covers over the bolts on the very front of the rails. Remove those trim covers. The bolts will be underneath. If memory serves me you will need a torx socket to remove them. A T45 or T50 male torx socket comes to mind.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flat-head screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket pry-bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

If the bolt looks like a "star" pattern then it's called a TORX head. Probably a T45 or T50.

Here are the full instructions and tools needed.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Look at fig. 4 for the heater a/c dash control: HEATER CORE Altima REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1. Position the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Disconnect the negative (() battery cable; then, the positive (+) battery cable. NOTE: Wait for a least 3 minutes after disconnecting the battery cables for the charge in the air bag circuit to dissipate before working on the air bag module(s).
   
4. Remove the driver's side SRS and steering wheel by removing or disconnecting the following:
   • Lower lid from the steering wheel and disconnect the driver's air bag module connector
   • Left and right side lids from the steering wheel
   • Special bolts from both side of the steering wheel using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50)
   • Air bag module and store it face up
   • Horn's electrical connector and remove the steering wheel nut
   • Steering wheel from the steering column using a suitable puller
5. Remove the passenger's side SRS by removing or disconnecting the following:
   • Glove box door and the glove box
   • Front passenger's air bag module connector
   • 2 special bolts using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50)
   • 4 passenger's air bag-to-instrument panel nuts
   • Front passenger's air bag module and store it face up.
6. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
7. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
8. Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
9. Remove the instrument panel by removing or disconnecting the following:
   • Kick plate and dash side finisher on the driver's side
   • 2 lower panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower panel on the driver's side
   • 2 lower reinforcement panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower reinforcement panel
   • 6 steering column cover screws, the covers, the spiral cable and combination switch
   • 2 cluster lid "A" screws and the cluster lid "A"
   • 3 combination meter screws, disconnect the electrical harness connector and remove the combination meter
   • Switch panel
   • Instrument panel lower covers
   • Snap out the transmission shifter finisher (boot)
   • 4 cluster lid "C" screws and the cluster lid "C"
   • 4 audio and deck pocket-to-instrument panel screws and the audio and deck pocket
   • 5 center console screws and the center console
   • 2 center instrument panel screws and the center panel
   • front defroster grilles
   • Front pillar garnish
   • Instrument panel 3 nuts/4 screws and the instrument panel
   • 8 instrument stay assembly nuts and the stay
   • Steering member assembly 5 nuts/1 bolt and the steering member
10. Remove the air conditioning housing assembly by removing or disconnecting the following:
    • Refrigerant lines from the air conditioning housing assembly
    • Thermo control amp
    • Air conditioning housing assembly
11. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Heater unit
    • Heater core from the heater unit Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering wheel and air bag module
      Fig. 2: Exploded view of the passenger's side air bag module
      Fig. 3: Exploded view of the instrument panel assembly
      Fig. 4: Exploded view of the heater housing assembly and related components
      Fig. 5: View of the heater core and heater housing
      
    To install:
    
12. Install or connect the following:
    • Heater core to the heater unit
    • Heater unit
13. Install the air conditioning housing assembly by installing or connecting the following:
    • Air conditioning housing assembly
    • Thermo control amp
    • Refrigerant lines to the air conditioning housing assembly
14. Install the instrument panel by installing or connecting the following:
    • Steering member assembly and the steering member 5 nuts/1 bolt
    • Instrument stay assembly and the 8 stay nuts
    • Instrument panel and the instrument panel 3 nuts/4 screws
    • Front pillar garnish
    • Front defroster grilles
    • Center instrument panel and the 2 center panel screws
    • Center console and the 5 center console screws
    • Audio and deck pocket and the 4 audio and deck pocket-to-instrument panel screws
    • Cluster lid "C" and the 4 cluster lid "C" screws
    • Snap in the transmission shifter finisher (boot)
    • Instrument panel lower covers
    • Switch panel
    • Combination meter, connect the electrical harness connector and install the 3 combination meter screws
    • Cluster lid "A" and the 2 cluster lid "A" screw
    • Combination switch, the spiral cable, the covers and the 6 steering column cover screws
    • Lower reinforcement panel and the 2 lower reinforcement panel-to-instrument panel screws
    • Lower panel and the 2 lower panel-to-instrument panel screws, on the driver's side
    • Kick plate and dash side finisher, on the driver's side
15. Working in the engine compartment, connect the heater hoses to the heater core tubes.
16. Install the passenger's side SRS by installing or connecting the following:
    • Front passenger's air bag module
    • 4 passenger's air bag-to-instrument panel nuts
    • 2 new special bolts and torque using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50) to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm)
    • Front passenger's air bag module connector
    • Glove box door and the glove box
17. Install the driver's side SRS and steering wheel by installing or connecting the following:
    • Steering wheel to the steering column
    • Steering wheel nut and torque the nut to 22-29 ft. lbs.
    • Horn's electrical connector
    • Air bag module
    • New special bolts to both sides of the steering wheel and torque the bolts using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50) to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm).
    • Both the left and right side lids to the steering wheel
    • Lower lid to the steering wheel and connect the driver's air bag module connector
18. Refill the cooling system.
19. Connect the positive (+) battery cable; then, the negative (() battery cable.
20. Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system refrigerant.
21. Operate the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks.

3/8 allen key or T45 or T50 torx bit. The allen key is the correct tool but the torx bit will work in a pinch.

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Actually the first answer was right.  On my 2007 Sprinter chassis, the side mirrors have an upper flat mirror and a lower convex mirror.  The upper mirror comes off exactly as described; by tilting it so that it faces down, and then gently lifting it from the top to slide it off the track. (On my sprinter the mirrors are heated, so there are wires that remain attached when you slide it off. This reveals three screws that you can get at with a torex screw driver without needing any flexible shafts etc.  It appears that there is a fourth screw or clip of some sort on the bottom, but I was not able to figure out how to get the bottom convex mirror off to get at it.  That would enable the removal of the full shell. Even without that bottom screw I was able to flex the shell enough to get the turn signal lens assembly out.  But removing it entirely requires reaching in with needle nosed pliers and rotating the bulb assembly a quarter turn, and then reversing the whole assembly to get it back.  In my case I was replacing the turn signal lens, but it should work the same for replacing the bulb. Good luck.