Water will not heat up

If when you turn power off you wait a while it is probably not the central system coming on. You have a triple aquastat that maintains a temperature level needed to provide hot water. but you are not getting the thermostat to operate the central heating. The thermostat is a switch that operates by temperature. if you have tried raising the thermostat and the system did nor kick in. try jumping the thermostat terminals in the aquastat . if that works then the problem is either in the thermostat or the wiring to the thermostat. also with a electrical tester." while the thermostat is jumped" test the c1 and c2 terminals to see if power is going to the circulator. If not then you need a new aquastat. if you have power and the pump is not moving water replace it.

Sounds like the sensor is not working shutting down too early

Unplug micro switch located on bottom of water heater if it has one

Glad it worked out so easily.
Be sure to perform the regular maintenance as shown in manual to prevent common error codes.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Hello

The majority of dishwashers are not connected to hot water from the mains but heat up the water internally using the heating element, located in the tub of the dishwasher, controlled by a thermostat. When the dishwasher has a fault with heating, the program will run but not complete and will show an error code on the display panel. Dishes won't be cleaned properly and the detergent won't dissolve.

If your dishwasher does bring in hot water externally from the mains to check the water is warm and there are no problems with the inlet. If the dishwasher heats internally then it is most likely a faulty heating element or thermostat. A fault like this will usually require a replacement part and a repair, but you can check the heating element with a voltmeter to ensure that it is the cause of the problem before calling out for a service engineer.

Hello

The majority of dishwashers are not connected to hot water from the mains but heat up the water internally using the heating element, located in the tub of the dishwasher, controlled by a thermostat. When the dishwasher has a fault with heating, the program will run but not complete and will show an error code on the display panel. Dishes won't be cleaned properly and the detergent won't dissolve.

If your dishwasher does bring in hot water externally from the mains to check the water is warm and there are no problems with the inlet. If the dishwasher heats internally then it is most likely a faulty heating element or thermostat. A fault like this will usually require a replacement part and a repair, but you can check the heating element with a voltmeter to ensure that it is the cause of the problem before calling out for a service engineer.

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
This is a very common problem with these units
The problem is that the cycle timer goes wacky on these machines fairly easy this can be due to the water not being hot enough entering the machine 140-160 f. if it is not at that temp the machine will
not wash like it should also these timers will just simply fail so i would first check the water pressure and temp and ensure it is good then check all of the filters and then i would contact you local appliance dealer and see if they can test the timer for you this is normally tested for continuity to see if it is bad ok if it is replace it further more if too much detergent is used it will clog up the system and this can give a bad result too so ensure there is not detergent clogging it up any where ok
Hope this helps you out
Best regards Mike

maybe your water is hotter