HOW TO REMOVE PISTON FROM SHORT BLOCK - Garden

It's been a while but Perkins did some funny things with engines, if you have replaced the pistons and they are too tall or short they make different length rods to fix this. Heigth should be noted on tear down but should not extend above top of block.

Here is the procedure:-

1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.



2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.



3. Remove oil pump and strainer.

TIMING GEAR COVER

1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.



2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS

1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
   

Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.

1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.



2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.



3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.



4. Remove injection pump drive gear.



5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.

CAMSHAFT

1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.



2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD

1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.



2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.



3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.

CRANKSHAFT

1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.



2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.



3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

no at all.
the 89 sidekick has a G16A engine
the esteem uses a J18 or G16B engine.

the G16A parts match G16A parts.
the B engines, have special pistons, fly cut for valve clearance.
mixing A and B parts will not work.
A = 8valve
B = 16valve
the J18 is 1.8L and is twin cam and totally different engine.

why not find a good short block? and build from there?
in the USA (car is rare )but all G16 blocks can befound
from 1989 to 1998, a 10 year span on trackers and sidekicks.
and esteems.
next time post displacements, so we can know what is there.

no - in fact the only practical fix will be to remove the engine and and install another engine or block. A short block which incorporates pistons and crank will probably be the cheapest way out.

the pistons can be installed from the bottom of the cylinder where there should be a chamfer ( use a ring compressor here makes the job easier--on the bench)
once you have the piston in the cylinder then install the assembly into the block taking care to ensure that the piston is at the top of the cylinder so that the big end doesn't damage the crank journal as you slide the cylinder down into the block I take it that the engine is a diesel ( wet sleeves) so check the liner to block face height before fitting because if the cylinder lip is too low , it will blow head gaskets
make sure that the piston is orientated correctly , the same as the others

What you need to do is lift the car take out the wheel where crank shaft is,
also know as the harmonic balancer

Remove the engine, remove the engine cylinder heads, remove the oil pan and oil pump and then unbolt the rod caps and then push pistons out the top of the block

The '92 Buick Roadmaster is equipped with a 5.7L TBI 8 cylinder engine.

The 5.7 is the 350 CID. When you inquire about a "short block" however, that is not what is in your car.

A short block means only a partial engine, incapable of running until other parts are added to to complete it.

Usually a short block consists of the basic block, crankshaft, rods, pistons, and rings. Some may come with oil pump, but I think most do not. If you buy a short block, you'll have to either transfer necessary parts (heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, etc....) from your current engine to the purchased engine, or purchase the needed parts from a supplier. Additionally, you'll have to purchase the necessary gaskets, seals, etc. to bolt these parts on to the "short block".

This isn't a huge task, but it may well be beyond the scope of the average DIY individual vehicle owner.

If you want to pursue this, you can purchase vehicle specific repair manuals from your local auto parts store.

Whatever you decide to do.....GOOD LUCK!

Homelite shows the short block assy ($84.02) but no breakdown of the top end. I've never taken one apart, not cost effective. Here's the link to their parts site. Have the UT number available

http://www.homelite.com/service_support/order_parts

These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.

• Remove the cylinder head.Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  

• Drain the engine oil.
  Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
  Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
  Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
  Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
  One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
  After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
  The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
  When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.