What is causing the water leak and how to fix it.

Good tight joints and PTFE tape.

Hi -

If your water heater is working (ie: making hot water) then most likely your heater isn't leaking. Rather, the leak is coming from the cold water supply and running down the tank where you see it at the bottom of the tank. A working tank that is leaking would produce a leak of hot water - not cold. You should carefully check the cold water piping for a leak, drip or stream of water and make the required repairs.

If tank is rusted out, then that is caused by depleted anode rod, or tank that is not electrically grounded on hot side pipe.
If pipe nipple is rusted out, then that can be caused by improper connection between copper and galvanized pipes, and caused by non-grounded hot water pipes.

If tank is leaking, replace it.
If nipple is leaking, remove with pipe wrench, apply teflon tape or joint compound on threads, and install new nipple. Replace anode rod if possible. Correct copper-galvanized connections. Add ground wire between hot and cold pipes.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Depending on age and condition, If you don't see any noticable leaks where pipes are fit on top of the tank, you will more than likely have to replace the heater. Try turning the power off to unit and remove the inspection plate(s) on the side. See if you can tell where the water is coming from. If you see it is leaking around the element(s), you may want to try to remove the element(s) and apply teflon tape or sealant to the threads and re-install, do not over tighten. You may have a crack in the fiberglass tank. Water is leaking down into the metal tank which is a protective cover for the fiberglass tank that stores the water. The pipe at the bottom is probably the drain for the tank. If you are going to try to re-seal the elements, you will definately have to cut the power nad drain the tank first.

Here are a few tings to look for:
When COLD WATER comes into the heater, it might cause sweating of the Cold water line, if the humidity is high in the house? This is usually in summer time only-- when the humidity inside the house is higher..

Another possible place, is the relief valve:
If you have a check valve or two in the system, that ends up trapping all the COLD water in the tank, as it goes thru its heating cycle, -- the Cold water expands, and has to be relieved-- Thus the relief valve will spit out a puddle of water keeping the pressure at a safe level.
(However-- usually the system has a drop pipe coming out of the relief valve-- so likely you would have said that the puddle was at the bottom of the drop pipe-- and you probably would have suspected it..)

However-- Do these suggestions give you some ideas of where the water puddle is coming from ?
Tell us more-

Mack B

If you have a leaking water heater there is a serious problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html
Page shows how to limp along on a leaking water heater if your water heater needs replacement.

One of three things is causing the water:
1) Loose water connection on top of tank that is dripping down inside tank >> check pipes on top of tank.

2) The vent is clogged or not working correctly causing condensation inside flue pipe.
Condensation water is dripping back down inside tank.
Problem means possible CO poisoning if gas is not venting.
Look at vent pipe to see if joints are corroded.
Use long fireplace match > light match and put into draft hood at top of tank and see if smoke goes up.
Put hand at draft hood opening when water heater turns on to see if vent gas enters home.
Do same test when furnace turns on to see if furnace vent is pushing back into water heater.
Does water heater vent inside same pipe as furnace? You may need to set up separate vent for water heater if furnace gasses are pushing back into home.
Check furnace vent for obstructions.
Look at vent stack top of home to see if hood is in place.
Check if bird nest is built inside warm vent pipe.
Improper flue is top priority for getting fixed so vent gasses properly escape home.
You may have to call a plumber.
Professional plumbing forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

3) Your water heater is rusted out.
A rusted tank has to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
However, before replacing tank, you do not want a tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs inside home until water is shut off.
This will cause major damage.
Protect yourself first.
Turn off water valve above tank.
Move gas knob to 'pilot' so burner is not heating water.
Open tub spout on hot side to relieve pressure on tank so it will not rupture.

Now you're protected.
Link above shows how to limp along on failed tank until you can replace heater.

You need a new gas water heater from Lowes or Home Depot
Look at label on side of you tank for gallons and btu's of your water heater.
Measure height to flue pipe so you get same height water heater, so pipes don't have to be changed.
You need a pipe wrench and teflon tape which will be wrapped on each pipe thread when pipes are reassembled.

Step1) Drain water heater using valve at bottom of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

2) Turn off gas valve going into heater.
When gas valve is perpendicular to gas line, then gas is off.
Dissemble gas line to water heater.

3) Disconnect flue pipe and support flue pipe with wire so it doesn't not fall down. Flue pipe joints should be held together at each joint with 3 screws.

4) Turn off water. Shut off valve is on COLD side.
Disconnect water pipes.

5) Move old water heater out of way.

6) Set new water heater in place. Put water heater in drip pan.

7) Connect water pipes >> cold goes to side marked cold.
Hot to hot.
Buy new flexible water connector pipes at home center for easy installation of water pipes.

8) Connect gas line exactly as it was connected before.
Home center sells flexible gas line connector for easy installation of gas line.
To test for gas leak after installation, mix liquid soap with water and put around gas line joints to see if there are bubbles.
Natural gas has less pressure than water lines, so gas pipes are easy to seal with ordinary wrench.

9) install TP pipe that runs to floor. Use old one off old heater.

10) Fill tank completely with water until water is coming out of tub spout.

11) Turn on gas, and light pilot as shown in manual.
New gas heater sometimes have small water leak when first fired up, so ignore a bit of water.

12) Save water heater manual like it is gold, and read everything in manual.

It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.
Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.

From description it Sounds like your bottom hook-up for water line coming in.(cold inlet) Depending on what type of connection you have on water line, it may just need tightening, if not it may require a new fitting installed, or the actual 1/2" NPT nipple going in to tanks is faulty. They use plastic, or galvanized pipe nipples usually, but in some cases you may find a check valve there. Either way, you'll have to determine exactly where it's leaking first. Depending on age of tank, it may even be the piece of aluminum welded to tank where 1/2" pipe nipple is installed. I've has 2 this year that rotted right through that and caused a leak, and had to replace the tanks. Let's hope yours just needs tightening, or a fitting replaced. Make sure you use good pipe dope when changing that nipple if necessary. Many use Teflon tape as well on threads, but I've had better luck with pipe dope.

you will need to explain more of where the leak is on the bottom. You have two plastic valves on the bottom and if the clips are not on exactly it will leak and if the person who replaced valves did not use vasoline when they put it back together the could have cut the gasket ring on the inside putting in back together and again it will leak. You have to determine where the leak is coming from to begin with using a flash light to get the exact location. .

If water is leaking from a pipe. then replace or repair the pipe or fitting. If the leak is coming from the unit itself, then replace the unit. Hope this helps.