Won't drain standing water won't drain and machine won't turn on

This sounds like a simple lid switch problem. If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

NOTE: Some washer models have the lid switch located near either the left or right hinge of the lid. This type of switch is activated by a rod on the hinge pin. If not functioning, it can often be adjusted by bending the hinge rod until it engages the switch.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hi..

To diagnose your solution you need to check this steps that i can provide you

1. Check that the washer is plugged in securely
2. Check the circuit breaker of fuse box. "A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your electrical circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault occurs. When an electrical fault occurs or the load on your circuit becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the flow of current to that circuit. A tripped circuit breaker is still sometimes referred to as a "blown fuse" in reference to the older technology that circuit breakers replaced. If your home uses an actual fuse and not a circuit breaker."
3. Test the outlet for current. You can test an outlet to determine if current can flow with a voltage tester. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before use. If you don't have a voltage tester, simply use a shop light or other convenient electrical device. Start by making sure the tester is working and plug it into a circuit you know is working. Note that if you need to test a 220V outlet, these instructions do not cover that test.

• The fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. Click on the following links for more information on replacing fuses and resetting circuit breaker.
  
• The outlet may be in a circuit with a GFCI outlet (ground fault circuit interrupt). If the GFCI outlet has tripped, it may cause other outlets on the same circuit to lose current. Look for an outlet that has a "Test" and "Reset" button. They are often located near water such as in a bathroom or kitchen. If the outlet has been tripped, unplug anything that may have caused the fault and then press the "Reset" button.
  
• A wire connection has become loose. A wiring fault can occur in many places, the most common include the outlet box, another outlet or junction box the wire passes through or at the circuit breaker.
  
• Outlets can wear out, a replacement may be needed.
  

1. Inspect the water pump
2. Test the centrifugal switch
3. Test the motor