Where can I find a replacement rubber or silicone plug for the drain? Mine popped out and I never found it.

Category moved from Cars and Trucks

The contact details are in this manual (not yours) on {age 8

https://secure.img1-fg.wfcdn.com/docresources/1736/112/1127954.pdf

The drain plug is shown here but discontinued

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/emerson-im90t-portable-ice-maker-parts-c-126248_126263_294563.html

You could make one out of a wine cork, or you could buy replacement generic Neoprene bungs. Click the images tab in this link.

https://www.google.com/search?q=neoprene+bungs

something like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114164318319

..

Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget.
Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off.
Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream.
Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails.
Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide.
Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up.
Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws.
Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge...
Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos.
Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.

here is the whole exert video of the whole eplanation watch it,(https://youtu.be/lhuBR1sKx7E)or
kingsley

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I would be surprised if your cooling problem is the compressor.

You did not provide a model number, which is on a label, on the upper side wall. So, I can only be general.

1.) Defrost Timer - If nothing is running except for the light being on then you have a bad defrost timer, which you can trip until you get a new part.

You are going to have to remove the bad wall. The are about 8 screws holing it on. The rubber molding on the side just pulls out.

Un-Plug the unit.

a.) Frozen Coils - If the coils are all iced up, then you have a frozen condensate drain. With a hair dryer and lots of old towels defrost the coil and clear the drain. This will take hours. Do not chip away, this may damage the coils.

b.) Freezer Fan - If the coils look good and the fan is humming then you need a new freezer fan motor.

c.) Bi-Metl - In the upper right hand corner of the coil is you temperature sensor. It is round and about the size of a quarter. Sometimes the back will explode and pop out some. If this is the case - replace.

d.) Bad Thermostat - This too can cause a lack of cooling.

Some fridges have a drain that has a rubber valve in the hose that can get plugged up and then the water backs up instead of draining. You may have to take the back off the fridge (metal panel held on with a handful if screws), and I'd suggest go ogling the model and symptom to find a picture of the valve.

probable a warn rubber mount on the compressor unit.....easy to replace or just repair with some silicon.

sounds like you have a leaking door seal. try running a hair dryer around the seal while the door is shut. this can sometimes work or help atleast. also inspect your seal for any cracks especially down the bottom. these cracks can be fixed with silicon although it is not ideal. :)

freezers still make condensation like air conditioners. they have a drain line heater to keep the condensate liquid until it exits the freezer. then it goes into a drain pain that usually has the high (hot) side line running through it to evaporate the water and at the same time increase efficiency. you probably have a rusted out drain pan which you can replace. you can make one from sheet metal and just seal the corners with RTV silicone, be careful sheet metal WILL cut you badly, so wear gloves whenever handling that stuff.

ice on top of freezer door they came out with a fix but does not work two vent holes on bottom of door seal mthem off with silicone moisture getting in if that don't work you need to take liner off and spray foam the liner cavities

Sounds like a blocked defrost drain. By "American" I presume you mean side-by-side.
I had a similar problem with a freezer-on-top style Samsung. The solution to that was to defrost the freezer, remove the false backing plate in the freezer (required removal of the ice cube tray. the panel just pops out with a bit of pulling). The drain hole beneath the freezer coils was blocked with ice. This drain passes down into the fridge and then out the back of the fridge into the evaporation pan next to the motor. There is a collector pan under the freezer coils, this and the drain hole were filled with ice. When the freezer goes into its self-defrost cycle the water collects here and then overflows into the fridge.
I removed the ice with hot water/vinegar mixture (so it doesn't re-freeze immediately) and simultaneosuly used a bit of chiselling with a screwdriver to clear the drain plug. I did this from inside the fridge working up the drain hole into the freezer. The whole job took about an hour.

The subject is a Eureka Model 350 hand held steamer that can be found at Lowes and other places for around $49.95. With this steamer you can thaw out an evaporator as quick as if you were using a heat gun or hair dryer but without the slightest concern about melting plastic or wiring. By using steam instead of pouring water (yes many still do) there is little to clean up. With the many attachments it comes with there are other uses (i.e. cleaning, thawing drains, thawing IDI fill tubes, etc.). The steam also makes the replacement IDI fill tube (rubber end) more pliable and easier to complete the installation when used at the end.
This unit has a trigger and can be used to blow out a stopped up drain on a refrigerator by letting the pressure build up a little then blow through the drain with one of the attachments. As for thawing out evaporators it had a fine jet tip for actually CUTTING through solid ice.
Another great use for this tool is refrigerator door gaskets. The hot steam works faster than a heat gun with out the worry.

Note: Do not aim steam directly onto the plastic freezer liner. The rapid temperature change could damage the liner.