How do I drain the water tank - Water Water Heaters

This important part is right at the end, you have a well!! It sounds like you may have run it dry? Check the well and the pump first. The rest is stop valves and pipes to the tank and beyond and not likely to be causing issues. Your sediment issues and problems with the anode is also due to using well water which is nearly always loaded with minerals..

Open the drain valve on bottom of tank

Add a potable expansion tank

Did u put the valves right way around some are one way flow , also is the drain blocked up?

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http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html
Put next water heater in drain pan.
Gene

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Copy following link.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You can try to crack it open and get a little piece of crud out of there, I'm sure that is all it is, Just get a tray or something to catch the water, It should stop it, If it gets worse, turn the water off to the heater, then open the valve and hope the bigger piece of crud comes out. It is about all you can do, other than drain the whole thing and take the valve apart and replace the rubber in it. Check it out, Hope this helps.

Grab a cap from the hardware store to stop it on the cheap. If it it is a brass drain valve you may be able to get away with draining the tank and replacing the small washer inside. Replacing the drain valve will be the ultimate solution.
Turn off the power on and electric or shut the gas valve to its off position.
Turn the water supply off above the tank or at the house main.
Connect a garden hose to the drain and open it all the way.
Open the safety valve on the top or side of the water heater to allow air in the tank so it will drain faster.
Unscrew the old drain valve with a pipe wrench.
Wrap plumber's teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the new drain valve and screw it into the tank by hand.
Tighten the valve with your pipe wrench until it is facing down at a 45 degree angle.
Close the safety valve.
Turn the water back on.
Open a faucet or two in the hows to let the air out of the tank while it is filling.
Turn the power or gas back on ONLY after the water heater it filled with water.

Bypass valve incorrectly set
obstruction or dirty tank
plugged line - lime or other! does cold flow into tank ok?
Tank is split water going somewhere you can't see - this should be obvious.

There is not really anything to obstruct the flow normally so there
would have to be an obstruction somewhere. Lime, junk, garbage etc build up .
On my coach I have lots of pressure on the cold side so hot would have to have the same unless there is an obstruction into or out of the tank. If in the bypass position you have sufficient flow than the lines are ok and the problem or obstruction is in the tank itself. Drain the tank, leave the bottom plug out, open up the pressure relief valve. Turn on the water and see if you get a lot of water draining from the drain hole on the tank. There should be a lot of water coming out of the drain hole. If so that tells you that your getting sufficient flow into the hot water tank. If so your problem is the water getting out of the tank. Like a clogged return line or an obstruction from the water tank to the faucet. A dirty scale lined tank can do a number on tank water flow. Also check to see if the water is going somewhere else, your tank could be split and you just can't see where the water is going!

Begin by turning off the gas at the tank and at the valve near the tank. CAUTION: Do not proceed any further if you do not know how to relight the gas pilot!
2) Turn off the COLD water supply to the tank.
3) Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Run the hose to a convenient drain location. Be careful if you use a real cheapy garden hose... some of these become very soft when hot water runs through them, and may leak! If you don't have a drain in the basement floor or suitable sump hole, you have my sympathies... this drain-down can take a while with a bucket! Oh... and be careful if you use a soft plastic bucket. It can also soften from the heated water so don't overfill it or burn yourself!
4) Open up the hot water side of any faucet. Open up the drain valve on the tank and allow it to empty. Miller time. That is, unless you don't have a sump...
NOTE: If the drain valve clogs, turn on the cold water supply to the tank to use water pressure to "blast" through the clog.
5) When the tank is empty, shut off the drain valve and turn on the cold water. This will loosen up more sediment in the tank through the churning action of the cold water in the tank. Let the tank fill partially and drain it again. In fact, if you find that the sediment starts to clog the drain valve, turn on the cold water supply to the tank, which will help loosen the sediment and blast it out.
If you have extreme amounts of sediment, you may have to repeat this procedure a few more times. Look at the drain water... if it is running clear, you are done. Shut off the drain valve, open the cold water supply and allow the tank to fill. Once water comes out of the hot water faucet, the tank is full and your task is done! Now, you can turn the electricity or gas back on to heat the water.
How frequently to clean the sediment from your tank...
This depends on the source and purity of your water supply. Some pros recommend doing it annually, some every few years. I would recommend doing a partial drain down annually if you find any sediment in the tank, otherwise every couple of years.
Remember that with an electric water heater, you must turn the power off! Even a partial drain down may expose the upper heating element to the air and permanently damage it!