Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

A
Anonymous Posted on May 08, 2016

How to I fix a leak from the 2 holes in the outer drum just below the drum pulley.

Hi, can someone out there please help me with a very old Hoover Logic 1100 washer/dryer model A8536. It started leaking and after taking the back cover off, I found that it is spewing dirty water out of the 2 holes in the outer drum just below where the drum pulley is attached. Also, there is what looks like a water trap, (clear plastic "small bottle") which is attached at the back of the outer drum that has a exit tube which attaches to a pressure switch via a plastic tube. It used to fill with water but has stopped doing this, seems to be blocked. I have tried removing the 2 clamps and short black rubber pipe that attaches the "water trap" to the back of the drum, but it will not come loose. Firstly, does anyone have any idea why it is leaking out of these 2 holes and what the purpose of these holes are? Secondly, what is this "Water Trap" for and how do I remove it to clean it out? Thirdly, does the "blocked water trap" have anything to do with the leak from the 2 holes as explained above. I would really appreciated any suggestions. Thanks! Frank

5 Related Answers

dazmaraz

Darren Moxam

  • 67 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 07, 2007

SOURCE: Hotpoint WD64, leaking water from soap drawer

your condenser is blocked,you might be lucky and get away with just cleaning it, but most of the time it is just best to change it. You will have to take the back off again it is the plastic component with the fan motor attached, disconnect the 2 black tubes to it [note where they come from] unscrew the 3 bolts at the bottom , disconnect the wires going to the fan motor. If you are going to change the condensor you will have to take the fan motor off aswell MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE MAINS. GOOD LUCK

Ad

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2008

SOURCE: musty odor

Unfortunately, this is a common problem with front load style washers. Now...if you pull the rubber boot back where it meets the wash tub there should be several small holes that allow any residual water to drain back into the wash tub. If these holes become clogged with lint and/or debris water will accumulate and mildew. The best advice I can give you when it comes to this type of washer is to become diligent about ensuring nothing gets caught in the the seam of the rubber boot. Routinely inspect this area after each wash for loose items like socks and underwear. In addition, clean this area periodically. What I often recommemd to people is to wait until you get ready to do a load of towels and wash cloths. Clean this area with a dirty towel or wash rag and throw it into the wash to be cleaned. This way you don't have to worry about having any old rags lying around. If you are not in the habit of using hot water settings you should also run a cleaning cycle about once a week on the hottest setting available. Pour a small amount of bleach into the soap dispenser and run the unit with nothing in it. This will help in killing any bacteria. Some of the newer models have now been equipped with a "Clean" cycle just for this purpose. Due to the design of these washers they become breeding grounds for mildew because the wash tubs are dark and if you leave the door closed when not in use it seals out any air that could allow the tub to dry out. When you are not using the washer leave the door slightly ajar to allow the tub to air out. I hope you find this information is helpful. Post back with comments and let me know if this works for you, or if I need to give you better advice.

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 05, 2008

SOURCE: Suds leaking from back of washer near top

I have the same problem now and again on my front loading LG. I noticed that it is coming out of a vent on the tub right where you metioned that is part of the design. Either there is too much detergent or the drain is restricted. When there are lots of suds they have to go somewhere. It's either out the drain or out the vent.

But seriously, take it out back and shoot it at you're earliest convenience and steer clear of LG appliances in the future. Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 38 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 05, 2008

SOURCE: Hotpoint WF321 during rinse and spin, will not go into full spin as machine keeps filling with water.

you should check your pressure switch hose for a pin hole or better still just replace the hose and it should sort your problem out good luck hamstel

Anonymous

  • 240 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2009

SOURCE: Whirlpool Cabrio Washer- When draining, water leaks out of hole

probably rubber hose from tub to pump broke, access from back or bottom, (cabrios are open bottom) pump in rear. there is a recent bulletin about tub ring not channeling water from dispenser completely into tub

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

I have a Hoover Contour HE430TF fridge leaking water to the bottom of the crisper. There is no internal drain hole. Hoover has no record of a 20 yr old model & is no help. How can I fix the problem?

it's not leaking water.. it's condensation running down the back of the fridge.. normally this is channelled into a hole that has a tube on it, that allows the water to go to a drip tray on top of the (warm) compressor, which then evaporates it.. Please re-check for a "V" shape moulding on the back if the fridge.. there SHOULD be a hole smack bang in the middle, which may have clogged up in the pipe with gunk, causing water to refreeze and block the hole completely.. best to do a full empty and clean, and use a chopstick, or better still a cheap pipe-brush from the £ shop, to clear that tube (about 1/2 inch diameter, or maybe less.)
0helpful
1answer

Describe how to put the scanner wire in taskalfa 221 copier

Fitting the scanner wires

NOTE:
When fitting the wires, be sure to use those specified below.
Machine front: (P/N: 2C91236), gray
Machine rear: (P/N: 2C91235), black
Fitting requires the following tools
Two frame securing tools (P/N 302C968310)
Two scanner wire stoppers (P/N 3596811)


Procedure
1. Remove the rear cover.

2. Remove the screw and remove the scanner wire drum gear from the rear side of themachine.

3. Remove the stop ring and bush.

4. Remove the stop ring and bush from the front of the machine.

5. Remove the scanner wire drum shaft from the scanner unit.

6. Insert the locating ball on each of the scanner wires into the hole in the respective
scanner wire drum and wind the scanner wire three turns inward and four turns outward.
With the locating ball as the reference point, wind the shorter end of each of the wires outward.

7. Secure the scanner wires using the scanner wire stoppers.

8. Refit the scanner wire drum shaft to the scanner unit.

9. Insert the two frame securing tools into the positioning holes at the front
and rear of the scanner unit to fix the mirror 2 frame in position.

10. Loop the outer ends of the scanner wires around the outer grooves in the pulleys on the mirror 2 frame, winding from below to above.

11. Hook the round terminals onto the catches inside the scanner unit.

12. Loop the inner ends of the scanner wires around the grooves in the pulleys at the left of the scanner unit, winding from below to above.

13. Loop the scanner wires around the inner grooves in the pulleys on the mirror 2 frame, winding from above to below.

14.Wind the scanner wires around the grooves in the scanner wire guides at the left of the scanner unit.
15. Hook the round terminals onto the scanner wire springs.

16. Remove two scanner wire stoppers and frame securing tools.

17. Focusing on the locating ball of the wire drum, move aside the wires to inside.

18.Move the mirror 2 frame from side to side to correctly locate the wires in position.

19. Put the mirror 1 frame on the scanner rail and move it toward the left side of the machine.

20. Insert the frame securing tools into the positioning holes (leftmost holes) at the front and
rear of the scanner unit and screw the mirror 1 frame while securing both the mirror 1 frame and the mirror 2 frame.

21. Remove two frame securing tools.

22. Refit all the removed parts.

I hope this is helpful,
Shawn


0helpful
2answers

Hi the belt on our hoover hnl 6166 nextra will not stay on. The motor and the drum seem to be out of alignment and there are no broken screws or bolts or wobbles. Any ideas please? Thanks Robert.

I would suggest that the drum is out of alignment because the main bearings have failed, or the drum shaft has collapsed due nto corrosion.
Spin the drum by hand, and listen for any noise, there should not be any, and see if the drum rotates centrally in relation to the outer drum
1helpful
1answer

Screechingdrum

This is almost certainly due to worn drum bearings. Although the noise is terrible, the machine will likely continue to work satisfactorily for a while longer before it either seizes up or starts to leak. If you start getting rusty marks on your laundry then it will be from the failed bearing.

The solution is to replace the bearings (a major and expensive job), but on budget brands like Hoover it's not generally possible as the outer drum is made of polypropylene and tends to shatter when the old bearing is driven out or when the new one goes back in. So instead, it's more usual to replace the complete inner and outer drum assembly as a single unit. A complete drum assembly is the one of the single most expensive parts of the machine so it's usually a repair which makes no economic sense unless the machine is still under warranty.

Any experienced home mechanic can usually attempt this job and the bearings themselves aren't particularly expensive (especially if the old one is taken to a specialist bearing supplier rather than purchased as an official Hoover part). But it does entail a near complete disassembly of the machine to do so, and on many machines the spot welds on the outer casing have to be drilled out (and replaced afterwards with pop-rivets) in order to remove the drum assembly. The old bearing will need a suitably sized drift tool to remove and refit, and I tend to use a very short offcut of a scaffolding pole is ideal for most machines, but it's not exactly the kind of thing which most home mechanics possess.

Good luck, and please take a moment to rate my reply.
2helpful
1answer

WHEN SPINING MAKING A LOAD NOISE

your drum bearings have gotten water in them from the lip-seal on the drum drive shaft,you need to remove the rear access panel,remove the belt remove the pulley,then remove inner tub and remove the spider that holds the inner drum on,then remove old seal and replace the inner and outer bearings,dont do just the inner bearing as the outer one isn't that expensive and may go out later,and its very labor intensive,anywhere from 2 to 7 hours depending on how stuck the old bearings are in the machine
4helpful
1answer

Bra wire's trapped between inner and outer drum,

If you cant pull wire out from inner drum with long nose pliers, Remove heating element and use torch to inspect bottom of washer. Most of the time the obstruction makes its way to the bottom. Use whatever tool necessary to remove spring.
1helpful
1answer

Maytag Neptune MAH5500B leaks. The leak is from a small hole in the outer plastic drum. The hole is at the six o'clock position where the large pulley that turns the inner drum is attached. There is a...

You most likely need a new outer tub,the bearing seal is shot eventually it will get gradually louder in spin if it hasn't already,you can try having the seal replaced and that may stop the leak but the damage to the bearing is already done.
0helpful
1answer

Water leak at rear of drum on Hoover Nextra HNF 3157 washing machine

The outer plastic casing around the drum was cracked by change left in a pocket. I fixed it with a secondhand casing
1helpful
1answer

The underwire from my wifes bra has gone through a hole in the drum in our washer. its stuck itself under the drum and is making an awful noise. do u think it would be possible for me to remove myself? if...

when you do this the waranty will be voided.
it is not too hard to remove but it is time consuming. Did this many times before but you have to be patient and methodical.
not what you take of and you will have to split the outer drum.
0helpful
1answer

Drum Bearing Replacement

With a plastic tub (outer drum as you describe it) removal of the old bearings can deform or bruise out the plastic housing a little - you will need to check that the new bearings will be really good fit. You may need to use a retaining compound if not, to ensure that the outer journals of the bearings don't creeping round in the plastic housing and wear it looser.
I did my Hoover Electron 800 bearings (metal tub). As i recall it was fairly straightforward - needed a gasket for the tub backplate on that.
Unbolted tub backplate from tub and withdrew it through rear of chassis along with drum/drum-shaft/bearings assembly, removed pulley, tapped shaft through bearings with softfaced mallet (or hammer & wood), drifted bearings out gently, working evenly around circumference.
For plastic tub some kind of suitable extractor may reduce chances of deforming bearing housing during bearing removal, compared to drifting them out. If it'd serve to ease the new ones in too then that'd be even better.
Don't forget to check/clean the water level pressure sensor path while you're at it - stave off any problems in that area for a while while you have the machine apart. ;o)
Not finding what you are looking for?

38 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Hoover Washing Machines Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

19187 Answers

NOEL
NOEL

Level 3 Expert

8606 Answers

Are you a Hoover Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...