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Replaced the governor operator new ignition module new spark plug and I clean the rust off of the magnet on the flywheel and still no spark
I installed a new governor and a new carburetor and she fired right up. She ran for about an hour and died set 10 minutes and ran for another hour and died when did the third time if I had to pull the choke out to keep her running then she spit and sputter and quit and no spark
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The ignition module air gap to flywheel magnet is 0.010 inches (0,3mm). If you dont have a brass feeler gauge use a single layer of electrical tape (0.007 in.) over flywheel magnet.
Sparkplug gap is 0.020 inches (0,5mm).
To test spark remove sparkplug for easier pull. Hold metal threads of plug against engine metal. Give a sharp pull on the starter rope.
If no spark, disconnect kill wire at the ignition module and make another pull.
If still no spark move plug to mounting screw of ignition module.
If still no spark, measure resistance of ignition module secondary winding (sparkplug wire to ignition module metal armature).Typical 5k to 8k ohms or more.
Look for a cracked or pinched wire allowing your spark to jump to the wrong point before reaching the plug... Use a meter to check continuity along the different wiring points, the wire could be broken inside the covering jacket and not visible.
Unclear when stated that there is a governor issue? I assume you have a Robin/Subaru 7.5 H.P. engine model EY280YD2510 with erratic behavior leading up to stalling out when a load is applied or the generator is at no load status after several minutes of run time?. Couple of things to check would be starting with the fuel system. Is there stale gas in the fuel tank? Have you verified fuel flow from tank? Is the fuel cutoff valve free of debris? Is the carb fuel bowel been removed and inspected for varnish? Is the air cleaner clean? Next, Ignition system. Have you inspected the flywheel for excessive rust? Have you reset the air gap on the ignition module? Does the on/off switch work (measured with a meter for continuity?) Any visual signs of damage with all wiring or the ignition module itself? I once thought I had an governor issue where the issue ended up being that the flywheel was corroded to the point that once the engine was fully warmed up the control module would contact the rust build up on the flywheel causing engine surges no matter what the load was on the generator, and at times would stall the engine. Clean flywheel off if necessary and reset the air gap on the ignition module. If that fails then inspect the governor spring (the top spring on the carb. linkage assembly) for excessive rust that will change the tension on the governor arm.Replace if in doubt! When doing all this inspecting ensure you have fresh fuel, oil, air filter, spark plug gapped correctly, and ignition module that has been tested as sound! These Robin engines are smooth running heavy duty engine that will perform for many years if taken care of. Good luck!
Remove (if necessary) and check your flywheel where the magnet is at for rust,corrosion, and lightly sand with fine sandpaper to clean the surface, then sand the face of the induction/ignition module to also give it a good conductive surface.
Reinstall the flywheel again, if still no spark...then replace the induction/ignition module as it is faulty.
Note: Be sure to measure the distance between the module and the flywheel to make sure you put the new module in at the correct distance from the fly wheel or you will get no spark also.
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It sounds to me that you have done most all of what is needed. Just take some fine sandpaper to the magnets in the flywheel. After sanding, wipe it clean, then spray it with carb cleaner to remove any possible residue. Now give the magnets a spray coating of clear polyurethane coating. The flywheel will never rust again. Replace the source coil and install a new spark plug. A plug that is carboned up can lessen spark voltage. The last item is the battery. A weak one can rob power. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
The easiest way to test is on the machine. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module coil. Check the pole gaps of the module by inserting a thin business card into the gaps after turning the flywheel magnets under the module. Loosen the module mounting screws to allow the module to contact the magnets, tighten the screws, and turn the flywheel slightly to release the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up further. Use a fresh spark plug gapped at 0.020" and try for spark. If nothing, replace the module. This gets around measuring resistances while trying to evaluate the module. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of all fuel lines. Does the primer bulb fill with fuel when pumped several times? Check the spark at the plug (gapped at 0.020") which should be blue and snappy. If weak looking, you may need to reset the ignition module gap to the flywheel magnets with a thin business card for a gauge. Remove the left side case to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel to bring the magnets under the ignition module, insert the card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the module to contact the magnets, then re-tighten the screws. Turn the flywheel one full turn and watch the gaps to make sure the flywheel doesn't contact the module. Recheck for spark. Hope this helps!
Check for blue, snappy spark at the plug (gapped at 0.020"). If weak or nothing, remove the flywheel cover to expose the ignition module. Check the module gap with a thin business card--turn the flywheel magnets under the module poles, insert the card into the gap, loosen the module screws, and allow the module to contact the magnets, then tighten the screws. Turn the flywheel somewhat to remove the card. Recheck for spark--if ok, try for engine start. If still no spark, remove the ignition switch wire from the module and retry for spark. If still nothing, replace the module. Install per the above instructions. Hope this helps!
Use a thin business card for a spacer that goes between the flywheel magnets and the ignition module. Allow the magnets to pull the module tight and set the screws. Rotate the flywheel as you pull the card out, then check for any interference by turning the flywheel one full turn. Turn the flywheel to the magnets and lift the wheel toward the module to see if you have crankshaft bearing slop that allows contact. If the module was tightly held to the magnets when adjusting clearance, the magnets should be fine. If the spark is still weak, take the 'kill' switch wire off of the module to see if there is a problem with the kill switch. Hope this helps!
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