Question about Makita Hammering
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Breaker Hammers size question
After considering the application work, determine the carrier on which the breaker will be installed. Gorilla Hammers has assigned a 'Recommended Carrier Weight' range to each breaker. If the operating weight of the carrier falls within this range, the carrier will safely handle this model of breaker. If the desired breaker falls outside of this recommended carrier weight range, the carriers lifting capacity and oil flow will need to be verified to ensure a proper fit. Lifting Capacity: Provided the weight of the breaker does not exceed the maximum lifting capacity at any position, the carrier is assumed to be stable. On most loader backhoes and excavators, the maximum lifting capacity is lowest when the boom is at full reach. This is the value that must be compared to the operating weight of the breaker. Oil Flow and Operating Pressure: A required oil flow range is specified for each breaker. Oil flow to the breaker within this range is adequate for operation. However, for maximum productivity the carrier should be capable of providing the maximum required flow. Compare the maximum oil flow requirement of the breaker with the oil flow capacity of the carrier. Remember the breaker operates at 1500-2500-psi. therefore, oil flow should be evaluated at operating pressure.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
You can use an adjustable face spanner wrench to remove that cap. I don't remember the pin size but you can measure the holes and get the appropriate size. You can remove the whole plate with the armature by undoing the 4 cap screws. Prior to removing the motor plate you have to remove the handle plate from the axle that goes through the body. Undo the nut that holds the assembly on and slide it off. You can now remove the Armature plate. After removing the cap screws pull the assembly out about 1-2 inches. You will see the wires that go to the field attached to the brush holders. Remove the screw that holds these wires to the brush holders. You can then safely remove the whole assembly. This also makes it easier to remove that cap plug with the spanner wrench, because you can now put the whole assembly in a vise. I always heat around the cap with a torch before doing anything. Then I tap on the plug with a hammer a couple of times and voila it turns alot easier. Corrosion almost always builds up on this cap because of the different metals. (Steel and Aluminum respectfully)
Your hammer may have a broken connecting rod. To inspect this make sure you ping the cylider and body with marks so you line them up the same way. Then remove the 4 cap bolts that hold the cylinder to the body. Remove the cylinder and inspect the hammer cylinder and rod. If the connecting rod is not broken you will have to inspect the gears and pinions to make sure they are ok.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
SOURCE: Won't Hammer!!
try repacking with grease as per service kit 897
thats the drawing for it
if that fails then its a replace all seals/o'rings i'm afraid
a fairly big job btw
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
my first question is what did the old brushes look like, was the spring burnt, were the contact faces on the brushes not the same. I would make sure that the brushes move freely in the tubes allowing contact with the armature, to ensure this use your volt ohms meter and place one in at a time and check by inserting your probe on the commutator thru the opposite brush tube and the top of the installed brush. I assume you have one if you indicate the cord/switch are OK. If they were not burnt then the next thing I would look for is a loose connection or broken wire from the vibration of this tool. You can get a breakdown and wiring schematic by going to milwaukeetool.com. I strongly recommend doing this before further disassembly. Let me know
Posted on Aug 02, 2011
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