Washer agitates, drains and spins. It is not spinning as fast as it usually does. No weird noises.
2 things are possible. Can you tell if the spin cycle is engaging? If the spin cycle is not engaging properly or very fast, then the water will not leave the clothes. less likely is that the machine is not draining the water away properly or fast enough.
Testimonial: "It agitates, drains and spins. It is not spinning as fast as it did before."
SOURCE: belt on my kenmore 70 series washing machine
Your washer should be a direct drive unit, it has no belt. If you hear the motor running but nothing is happening you probably have a broken motor coupler. The coupler is about $10.
Pop off the trim pieces on each end of the console.
Remove the two screws that hold the console to the cabinet and flip the console back.
Remove the two clips that hold the cabinet to the rear panel of the washer and unplug the lid switch harness. The cabinet will tilt forward and slide off.
Remove the clips holding the water pump and move it to the side.
Unplug the wires from the motor and remove the clips holding it.
You will see the motor coupler.
Make sure you can turn the gearcase shaft with a pair of pliers so it is not locked up.
Post back and let me know what you find or if you need any help.
SOURCE: kenmore heavy duty 2 way tumble washing machine
You may have a broken inner tub spider. Check for play between the inner drum and the outer tub by moving the inner drum up and down.
If there is excessive play, the spider is broken causing an unbalanced load and therefore no high speed spin can be achieved.
In this case the inner drum would need to be replaced, which means taking the machine almost completely apart. A good tech can do it in about 1.5 hours.
SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 after wash clothes are left soaking
when empty and off, open the lid and see if you can rotate the inner wash basket by hand. if you can easily, then the clutch is worn. This will prevent the basket from going into a high spin and wringing the clothes out. Replace the clutch by removing the top control panel, removing the clips that hold the cabinet, pull cabinet off, remove drain pump clips and pump, remove motor clips and motor, remove transmission (3 bolts). Now you will have access to the clutch, replace as needed, reverse dissasembly to complete. remember to unplug.
SOURCE: Kenmore top loading washing machine does not clean clothes well.
I would seriously consider getting a newer machine. A brown stain could be rust, or an oil leak. Either way it probably is not worth putting any money into. If this helps, please rate my answer. Thank you.
SOURCE: My washing machine (Kenmore 70 Series) does not spin
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
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Agutates, drains, and spins. The spin cycle seems slower than normal.
It agitates, drains and spins. It is spinning much slower than normal.
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