HP PL4245N 42 in. HD-Ready Plasma Television Logo

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Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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Same problem as rrobert4

Rrobert4

I am having the same problem and, also going to change the 1000UF caps. Did replacing the caps fix the issue? If that doesn't work I am just going to order the whole board but it's tricky cause I dont know if it's just the board or if there is another problem that caused this board to fail.

Website where to order board below
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1111876-n-fslash-a.htm

  • leguwan Jul 17, 2009

    So what do you suggest I do if I change the caps and it still doesn't work. There are about 4 leds on the main board when I turn on the tv 3 green light up after two seconds the relays click and then the green leds turn off and a red one turns on. Do you know what the red led is tring to indicate specifically, other then there is something wrong. Emial: [email protected]

    Regards,
    Leguwan

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1 Answer

Steve Allison

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  • HP Master 5,569 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Steve Allison
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The power supplies in modern TV sets are absolutely miserable and probably half of all problems stem from power supply malfunctions, not caused by circuits beyond them.
BTW, the main filter caps that you are replacing don't fail that often. Mostly it is lower value, lower voltage caps in the supplies feedback path that keeps the supply regulated and running are at fault.

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1helpful
1answer

My 32" RCA model #

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
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Sp-R4212 Plasma no picture keeps changing channels when you go to the menu the menu keeps rolling won't stop if I unplug the set for a few days you can go to setup and get it to work I had Sears out to fix...

When the menu starts rolling, take the remote out of the room to see if it's the remote causing the problem.

if it's not, check for bad capacitors on the boards.

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the bulging or leaking capacitors, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
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Clicking sound, screen flickers - inverter board has been replaced with same results

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors in the power section
Any caps that appear bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.

Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
0helpful
1answer

I have a sony klv-30mmr1 tv which now when I press the start/standby button It clicks and flashes red, and trys to go onto the setting where the blue light changesif I keep pressing the remote it seams to...

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for 5 mins, then try.

If you aren't tech savvy, this unit needs to go in for repair.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
0helpful
1answer

Tv screen goes black but sound remains after 30 minute of being on

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
Chances are it'll stay on for shorter and shorter periods of time.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for different brand, but same issue) on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
1helpful
2answers

Not turning on at all

check your power supply. remove it then remove the metal plates on top of the psu. ill bet you find 2x 1000uf 35V ,4 x 1000uf 10V and 3x 670uf 35V capacitors that are swollen or leaking. if you replace the 1000uf caps it will work but if the 670uf caps are swollen as well its a good idea to replace them as well. the 1000uf capacitors can be bought at radio shack for around 10 dollars. you can use the 1000uf 35V caps for the 1000uf 10V caps if you cant find the 10V ones . the 35V caps are a little bit bigger but still work . you will need a good soldering iron (35-60 watts) and a good desoldering tool . easy to do if you know how to solder.
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Lg rh397d and the hello lcd just keeps playing but unit wont turm on

Problem is caused by unstable 12v supply to HDD.

To fix you need to replace the 1000uF 25V capacitor in the power board. The failing capacitor has a expanded casing and there was two of these in my daughters unit.

Worked OK once I replaced the 2200uF and the 1000uF capicitors.

GDW
1helpful
1answer

RE: Replace 16v 1000uf

You can change the voltage rating to a higher one without compromizing the circuit. You can not lower the value however. In other words, using a 1000uF cap rated at 16V would be OK. The short answer is no, you can not use the extra caps you have unless you put 3 of them in series. (I doubt you have the space for that.)

Dan
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Sony MFM-HT75W 17in Multifunction Display

Hi, I was able to fix my set by changing only three out of the six capacitors between the heat sinks opposite the plug on the board. I noticed under a microscope the caps looked a little puffy, but not much, and I checked them with a capacitance meter, but they were in tolerance, but decided to change the three closes to the edge of the board with a 1000uf, 50v, 1000uf 25v and 1000uf, 50v with the one that is 25v going in the middle, I didn't have another 1000uf,50v for the middle one. (sometimes you gotta use what you got to get what you want) So I powered my set up and it stays on . I hope this helps. I may go back and replace all six with 1000uf, 50v, but the space in there is limited and those are some large caps. I will wait until the set acts up again before i do that. I am satisfied with it for now. Again I hope this will help with what you've got going on with yours.10_25_2011_8_27_53_pm.jpg
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Problem with starting

read on a forum that changing out c316 1000uF will fix the problem, mine will not turn on now, seems to have gotten worse over time. I will change the capacitor from 1000uF 10v to 1000uF 16v.  Look at your capacitor, mine looks like its ready to blow.  Most other capacitors on the board are rated at 16 volts.  I will be changing out the cap. to see if it works.
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