Proper adjustment for carburetor

The baseline throttle slide height for a Suzuki GS750 motorcycle should be set so that the slides are fully closed when the throttle grip is in the closed position. This means that when you twist the grip fully counterclockwise to the stop, the slides should be flush with the carburetor body.
To adjust the throttle slide height, you will need to remove the carburetors from the bike and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the bottom of the slide and the carburetor body.
It is important to make sure the throttle cables are properly adjusted before setting the throttle slide height. The throttle cables should be adjusted so that the throttle grip moves the slides smoothly and the grip is in the closed position when the slides are fully closed.
It is also important to keep in mind that the carburetors on a Suzuki GS750 motorcycle should be synchronized after adjusting the throttle slide height. This ensures that all carburetors open and close at the same time and at the same rate, which is necessary for proper engine performance.
Please note that this is a general explanation and the specific process may vary depending on the year or model of your Suzuki GS750 motorcycle. It's recommended to consult the service manual for your specific bike for detailed instructions on adjusting the throttle slide height and synchronizing the carburetors.

I don't think so. Adjusting the high and low on carburetor is a thing in the past.

low and hi speed mixture screws
one adjusts for proper idle
one adjusts for proper high rpm operation
turn them in or out to get the best throttle response and proper wide open throttle rpm's

If this is a new bike take it back to the dealer and have them properly set it up.
Options:
Sometimes a clogged air filter will cause the fuel/air mixture to become to rich and the bike will stall. Remove the filter and air blast it clean then wash wash in solvent/gasoline then let dry. Apply a very light oil to the filter to keep dirt out, then re-assemble.
Sometimes filters are in-expensive so just replace with new.
You also have a slide stop screw on the carburetor. This can be turned in about 1/8th of a turn to increase the idle speed.
Also: The throttle cable has adjustable ends both at the twist hand throttle and at the bottom where it goes into the carburetor. Vibrations may have loosened the adjustment and you may be able to re-secure the cable adjusters in the correct position for proper idle speed.
Best wishes,
TF

I would like you to look at this carburetor tuning tutorial by a major carburetor manufacturer. They answer all your questions here:

http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html

You may be dealing with a combination of problems. I suspect you may have air leaks possibly in the intake manifolds. This would cause lean running conditions. To compensate for low idle you would have to raise the idle speed. Some fuel system cleaner in the tank and a short drive will help get you ready for the next step. One screw generally will adjust the idle of all four /three /two carburetors at once (depending on the model). If the bike will not run unless the carburetor idle is turned way up, it is probably because the carburetors are out of sync. With the proper equipment basically a set of vacuum gauges , a wrench, and a screw driver , you should be able to adjust the carburetors so they all open at the same time. With any luck stopping the air leaks and tuning up the carburetors should fix your idle/take off dilemma.

Hello roobar2009:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
>>If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then
>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

If there is a fuel leak causing this problem it could be from the line going to the carburetor or the float bowl. If no leak is present there, could be flooding or a sticking needle in the carburetor allowing fuel to enter constantly.

Clarification Request
Posted by slohry on Apr 10, 2009
What kind of carburetor does it have? Zama, Walbro? And what model carb?

No response to clarification request... delete this question.