Cannot turn distributor by hand on a 1950 ford 8n

these links should help 6 to 12 Volt Conversion on Ford 8N My 1950 ford 8n conversion from 6 volt to 12 volt for free 12 Volt Conversion Ford 9N 2N 8N Electronic Ignition

Here is a link that may be helpful. 1952 Ford 8N carburetor problem

Bob

Sometime around 1950 Ford tractors started using "live PTO". Prior to that the power lift for equipment required that the PTO be on and running (turned on by a lever on left side of chassis below the driver's seat). So 'yes' the older tractors (many in use today) require the PTO to be running in order for the lift arms to lift equipment. I find this very annoying when trying to run a mower, especially when the hydraulics don't hold very well.

Not real familiar but basically if it's a battery run system (not magneto) then I would turn the engine so the points are closed, Pull the coil wire from the cap and place it near the block so that you can see a spark if it happens.Disconnect the hot wire from the distributor and turn on the power. Scratch the wire to the post and it should make the coil spark. If not then something may be shorted out. (sometimes too long of bolt or a rotated wire connector) If you have spark then it's a timing issue. The only way a timing gear will jump is if a tooth is broken off and it will never run. Take the plugs out and crank it. If there's no horrible sound then it's just timing. Find TDC on #1 by holding your finger over the hole and crank it. If it's on the exhaust stroke, then you will feel nothing. Compression will blow. insert a soft wire down the hole and rotate the engine by hand. The wire will come out of the hole. It will stop and start to go down again. That point is close enough to top dead center. back off just a hair and that will be OK for timing. Taking note of rotor rotation, turn the distributor housing in the same direction until the points close. With the key on, rotate it the other way until the points spark and lock it down. That should get it running initially. Make sure that your wires are in the proper sequence. I've seen where it's been mistaken that it goes cw instead of ccw and visa versa.

there is a spout connector flat square gray in color located in the area of the distributor of lying on the intake taped to the wiring harness.there is a two wire plug(called the spout) that has a flat cap that is removable.with the engine running pull the cap out of the spout and with your timing light attached check the timing marks and ensure it is timed correctly.if not loosen the distributor hold down bolt and move the distributor until the timing is set.turn off the engine reconnect the spout cap and ensure the check light is off.

I just had to do the same. I removed grill and hood. Disconnect upper radiator hose. Remove radiator mounting bolt under left side (as you're looking at the front) and loosen the right mounting bolt. Radiator swings to the right to allow access to the distributor and coil. Lower radiator hose can stay connected as long as it will fold on itself without damaging. Remove the coil and distributor cap. Check to see that the rotor turns when cranking the engine over, to eliminate that potential firing problem. Then remove the whole distributor to replace points and condensor. It's a lot easier. Be sure to check gapping on all four lobes.

there will be a bolt at the bottom of the distrubitor you have to loosen that to be able to move the distrubitor from side to side

Distributorless Ignition is not adjustable However the Distributor Ignition System is
1 Place Transmission in Park on Manual (Neutral and set Park Brake
2 Ensure all accessories are off AC ,Heater, Radio, ETC...
3Connect an inductive timming light and Tach to the Engine according to manufactures instructions
4 disconnect the single wire inline spout connector or the shorting bar from the double wire spout connector( should be located near hood hinge on fenderwell drivers side small Gray plug with pc of Tape around it ) or near distributor
5 using a pc of yellow chalk laying flat onto the Crankshaft harmonic balancer and marking the entire timing marks area this will make it easier to see the correct timing marks
6 Start engine and bring to normal operating temp.
7 Check Idle speed and adjust if needed this should be non adjustable on your vehicle
8 Check initial timing by aiming the timing light at the marks and pointer.see emissions label under hood for exact timing Specs.
9 if the marks don't line up shut down engine
10 loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor base but not so much that the distributor turns when assistant restarts the engine
11 restart engine
12 have assistant aim timing light at marks and pointer
13 while holding the distributor Base Shaft with the proper sized wrench at the base or insulated channelocks loosen the hold down bolt and advance or ****** the distributor until the correct timing marks line up.hold in that position while assistant shuts engine off
(NOTE) when retightening the distributor bolt it can have the tendancy to turn the distributor
14 retighten the distributor bolt while holding the shaft firmly to prevent spinning
15have assistant restart engine
16 Verify that the timing marks still line up with pointer if non alignment , readjust using steps 9 thru14 again
17 once it is set correctly and bolt is tight on distributor base shut down engine. Reconnect in-line Spout Connector or reinstall inline spout shorting bar and assure that timing is advancing beyond initial settings by starting the engine and aiming at the timing marks when engine is slightly reved the timing should advance slightly 2-4 degrees maybe more depending on mileage
18 if timing can't be achieved because distriburor was removed you must
1 unhook coil wire
2 remove the #1 Sparkplug verify that the #1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke (must be on top compression stroke) if it isnt have assistant crank engine slightly to get close with coil wire unplugged. DO NOT turn the crankshaft backwards at any time to get piston into position 3 once piston is in position remove the battery cables, remove the distributor cap with wires intact and verify that the rotor cap is at center of the #1 point in the distributor cap if it isn't
4 loosen & remove the distributor bolt
5 lift the distributor only slightly enough to disengage the gear on the shaft from the camshaft gear (NOTE) when letting it back down into the engine it will spin the rotor off of the #1 position so it must be turned far enough to compensate for this turning when it is reinstalled
6 seat the distributor shaft in the hole and reinstall the retainer bolt and tighten then use the steps above to fine tune the timing

Not sure bout the vac line try looking in the back of the carb. The backfiring could be a timing problem. May be the timing belt slipped. Under the distributor their is a bolt that holds the distributor down. Loosen that bolt and try rotating the distributor either direction while the engine is running and see if it smooths out.

Hi..my name is Keith..and i have 9 ford tractors..i have 9N's..2N's and 8N's..and i have converted one or two of them over to 12V..and i use the solonid that has only 1 side post...and thats what my original starter swich connects to and on the big terminal i have the battery wire and a 12 gauge wire that i run to the amp meter....i hope this helps..and if you have any questions..please write back