At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Have you cleaned and flushed your cooling system? Mineral deposits can clog the system or form a barrier that reduces the cooling efficiency. The acids in the radiator flush cleaner will dissolve the mineral deposits and are then drained away and the system refilled with clean water to rinse it out. Then a mixture of water and coolant are put into the system.
Also, what does your coolant look like? Is it clear or is it cloudy or look like a melted milkshake? If it's not clear, you might be getting oil into the cooling system. This could be from a cracked block or a blown head gasket.
Spark plugs used to be so cheap it made little sense not to change them regularly. In those days spark plug electrodes would visibly erode and demand more spark voltage and even filing them flat and regapping would not restore as-new performance.
These days most spark plug types are somewhat specialised - made from better materials, providing an extended life with little reduced performance. This is reflected in the price paid and the cost of some types is eye-wateringly painful.
One vehicle I looked after had covered 70,000 miles on the same set of plugs without the tell-tale rounding of the electrodes even under a strong magnifier. I had checked them every 10,000 miles only to put them back (with some copper grease on the threads and a smear of silicone grease on the insulator). I eventually replaced them as a matter of form but I think they would have done in excess of 100,000 miles without trouble.
I suggest you remove the plugs and look at them in good light through a magnifier and replace them only if electrode erosion is taking place and the gaps have widened significantly, if there is heavy ash/carbon deposits (almost unheard of these days) or the dreaded town running deposits are apparent.
This yellow/green tint to the insulator colour is electrically conductive and usually formed when a person drives steadily in city limits all week and then at the weekend leaves the city limits and accelerates rapidly to high speed instead of building the speed slowly.
Town running creates a buildup of ash and carbon that will burn off when speed is built slowly whereas sudden acceleration can bake those deposits so they become an integral part of the insulator.
On the '98, you can expect the air conditioner compressor to freeze up, the EGR light to come on from carbon deposits and the maybe a form of parasitic draw on the battery. But overall it is a good car.
It does not take much oil to damage a car's engine. If it is just a little bit of oil in gasoline tank: As you drive over bumps the fuel pickup will take some oil & burn it along with the gasoline. If you have fuel injection, deposits may form on the fuel injectors which will need to be cleaned to avoid a poor idle or hard starting condition. Deposits may also form on the spark plug electrodes which will need to be cleaned and regapped or replaced if they use dual or quad ground electrodes.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Autel MaxiDAS DS708
You need to clean the engine throttle body and the automatic idle speed control motor, they are likely full of cylinder backwash deposits and this causes the problem. Use throttle body spray celaner form the auto parts store and after cleaning disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the system.
Your lifters are the hydraulic type. Inside the lifter is a small piston that is driven by engine oil pressure. As the lifter gets older, a small amount of residue forms inside that is more sticky when cold than it is when warm. That prevents the piston to move freely until it gets warm. The piston takes up slack between the cam and valves, so when it's stuck, the valves become noisy. Usually if the problem is minor, adding marvel oil to your engine oil will gradually dissolve the deposit and quiet it down. Internal lifter wear can also cause a similar problem. Adding a viscosity improver such as lucas additive will often help with that. Your only other option would be to take the engine apart and actually replace the lifters. When using additives, give them time to work....deposits form over time and it takes time to make them go away.
Does this happen after about an hour of running? This time of year condensation easily forms in exhaust and gives the "white smoke" look. If you have access to a large garage that you can get it into - see if it's still smoking. DON'T do it long as exhaust fumes can kill you (I had to include that) Keep an close eye on temp gauge and coolant levels. I suspect it's just condensation.
Hi! yeah this might help... but your radiator does'nt dissolved much water because of formed scale deposits.... try to drain or maybe check for leaks before changing the thermostat... Thermostat don't easily broken....
×