Heater element wiring for hotpoint wf860p washing machine on the control board end

F44 indicates a heater relay fault; the heater cannot be turned on. First check the heating element or the wiring for the element. If there is a problem with these, replace the part(s). If the heating element and wiring are good, then you need to replace the entire electronic control board. The relay is on that board.

Unfortunately, the control board is no longer made. The parts diagram is available here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3ky9drdxaj-000583/kenmore-elite-11028082700-washer-parts . The heating element is shown as part 15 on the motor, basket and tub parts diagram. The electronic control board is part 1 on the control panel parts diagram.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this help in solving the problem.....

Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Take care......

Look all around the inner tub with a torch , if you spot the wire sticking through grasp it firmly with pliers and pull out , dont let it go , if it slips completely between drums it is more difficult to get to.

the usual problem with tripping is the heater of the dryer box has become loose and touching an earth.
if you take the lid off you will see the box on top of the drum.
with the electric off you can look for loose/disconnected wires and wiggle the 2 metal tabs that are the ends of the heater, should not move.
you may be better with an engineer visit if it's not an obvious fault.

I am assuming you have accessed the element, in the centre of the element is a fixing nut, remove this altogether, and lever element out with a broad blade screwdriver or similar.
Pull the thermistor out of the element, and transfer to new element.
Also transfer stainless steel fixing bracket to new element if there is one fitted. Refit new element
Plz rate my solution.
Thamks.

The drum comes out through the front on this one.Take off kick plate and remove screws holding front panel to frame. Take out soap drawer & remove screws behind it. Take off band holding door seal & peel seal back.Remove 2 screws holding door lock &push lock through. Pull control panel forward at left side &slide to right to remove being carefull with board & wiring.Remove screws holding top end of front then lift slightly &remove front.Remove back panel &take wiring off heating element & pump. Disconnect the pump hose at the drum end, disconnect the hose from the soap dispenser, note that wiring is fastened to the drum at several points and will need to be disconnected. Remove panel from behind control board then carefully move everything away from the front of the machine, the drum can now be lifted clear.

Forgot to mention unplugging motor but common sense will prevail.

If you need any further assistance please post back

Good luck & thanks for using Fixya

motor triac short circuit check motor and module connections, if o.k poss motor fault

yes check for a heater element down to earth or at least a wire on the element off and touching the case, but i am confident its a heater element, rate me when you fix it, work with safety unplug when working on machines

right you have 2 parts for heating the water you have the heater element you can test this simply by undoing the wires making sure to wright down order they go in get an old wire with a plug on the end attach each colour in the order you took the proper wires of plug it in if the element is working then you will feel the heat and see it glow if it doesnt then its a faulty element if it does then it will be your thermostats both element and thermostats are located at the front behind the front panel this needs taking off