SOURCE: Frigidaire FRT18HB5DW2 fridge not cooling
Sounds like an air flow problem to the lower unit. Take the sheetmetal or plastic rear cover off the freezer back wall and make sure the coils are frosted up good and even but NOT a block of ice inches thick (air needs to circulate and a blocked coil won't let air move over it efficiently). Make sure the fan is running to move the air around. In the fridge area make sure the air dampers are letting the cold air from the freezer down to the fridge compartment. Depending on what you find will determine the next steps so let us know.
SOURCE: Problems with Frigidaire Refrigerator not cooling
In turning it off you may have only closed the air damper. Set it to 1/2 way.
If ice or frost in the air damper area on refrigerator side you may not be defrosting the freezer coil.
Inspect from bottom looking up with a mirror and flashlight. You should have no Ice buildup frost that is even and white is normal. Feel Check the back wall mid way down to 1/4 way to bottom. Push on the wall slightly. Crunching like frost or snow behind wall is not normal. I suspect non defrosting here.
Next eliminate the inside fan motor. It has to run to push air all over
the freezer and refrigerator. If this fan doesn't run the results will
be only the area with the refrigeration evaporator coil will cool and it may get too cold and resemble a non defrosting situation where the air is not able to circulate because of frost build up.
Next eliminate the Ice maker and light as a source of heat. Unscrew and unplug them
.
Next eliminate the door gaskets from not sealing. A piece of paper set tween the door and frame and pulled across it and you feel resistance all the way and the gaskets are smooth and not warped they are OK
Next inspect the condenser fan and coil by the compressor underneath. A dirty coil here will cause diminished heat removal and possible for a partial cooling of some of the freezer.
Only after inspecting all these items and determining they are OK should you proceed with refrigerant checking. Also a person with out the ability to measure the actual amount of refrigerant being put in should be shown the door. Even with topping off (adding some) refrigerant I use a scale to determine that I do not put in too much. So if you have a friend that does this and no way to tell how much is too much.... well with all due respect your getting what you pay for.
If this helps you understand your problem and need more information please post back, I will follow up. If it helped you determine your trouble please rate me as high as you can. Thank You for using fixya and good luck.
.
SOURCE: Creda R335NW Fridge/Freezer. The fridge section
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it. There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
SOURCE: fan not working on fridge section of Hotpoint Fridge Freezer Model FFA90
Fan not working, fridge not cooling anymore, freezer seems ok
Hotpoint Fridge Freezer RFA52 BUT I DONT KNOW WHERE IS THE FAN CAN SOMEONE HELP ME TO TELL ME WHERE IS THE FAN IN MY FRIDGE SO I CAN DEFROSE IT.
PLESAE EMAIL ME ON: [email protected]
MANY THANKS
SOURCE: fridge is not cooling freezer is working ok side by side model
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working ok . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrig side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
286 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×