The beeping is in most cases to alert you to the fact the temperature is above the safe limit.
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Fridge Freezer
I have a Fisher and Paykel E442B upside down, which is a very similar model, and I just fixed the same problem (temperature was around -4C even though I set the fridge temperature as warm as possible).
The cause of my problem was excessive ice build up on the side of the evaporator coil (which is in the back of the freezer compartment behind the rear plastic panel). I had the same problem around a year or so ago, so I expect it to be a regular occurence. To defrost the coil, I removed all the drawers in the freezer, and the plastic insert by pulling out the bottom of the panel out and rotating it upwards until it released at the top. There are a couple of snap-in tabs holding the panel in, so with a bit of pulling they released. The tabs are either side of the slot at the bottom of the panel.
I then supported the panel horizontally on the top shelf so that I didn't have to disconnect the thermostat wire and the circulating fan wire.
With a small fan heater set on low, aimed roughly at the ice buildup on the left hand side of the evaporator coil, I defrosted the ice built up. This took around 2 hours or so. Then put it all back together and it worked fine.
I'm not sure why the ice build up on the side caused the problem, but presumably it interferes with the proper flow of cold air to the fridge compartment.
If you don't seem to have ice build up like I did, then it could be a thermostat problem, or a fan problem (a symptom of which would be fridge being colder at the bottom than at the top).
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel N500B fridge freezer. Freezer not freezing
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel Model number 402B S.Steel. Bottom frezer top Fridge.
My Fisher & Paykel Model E402B Stainless Steel Fridge/Freezer has a problem. Bottom Freezer is OK but Refrigerator will not work properly, somtimes it will freeze everything now it just warm inside i have checked the the fan and the rubber holding it up has broken also the ice is frozen in the vents can you help i got someone in to fix it but he said it will cost around $600 as there might be more wrong with it, what do you suggest thanks Clare
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel Dryer model ED56 constant beep
Diagnostic Mode
Entering the Diagnostic Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
button.
The dryer is now in level 0 of the diagnostic mode. After initial entry into the
diagnostic mode, the Start/Pause button operates the dryer as normal. Press
the Auto Dry up or down buttons to scroll through the fault levels.
There are several levels of diagnostics, most of which are used in
development and production. These levels may bring on various LEDs, but
the level of use for the service technician is that of the last fault.
Last Fault
To enter the last fault diagnostics, enter the diagnostic mode as described
above, then press the Auto Dry up button three times. The last fault will be
displayed on the drying progress LEDs.
The manual is here
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel active smart fridge keeps
press the select button ( the button that you choose the temperature on the fridge and freezer) and check that the fan on both fridge and freezer are working.
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