I need the gear on the end of the armature for a shopmate model 800. Can you provide one and what cost?

The factory never made the armature available for purchase. We provide a service by turning them on a lathe. If your armature is not to far damaged, it can make it like new....give us a call.

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800-523-0510

The armature will not normally make a knocking noise, even on low speed it is turning at hundreds of revolutions per minute so you will only get a whirr not a knock. Most common knocking is the plastic fuse gear missing a tooth or two. That is the first gear driven directly from the end of the armature. What you should have done is break it down slowly while always keeping it together enough to run it with one component less each time. Remove planetary.....run it. Split gear case apart....run it. That sort of process will give you a clue where you need to be looking for the fault.

If the motor is spinning but the bit isn't you have one of two problems. The armature has gear teeth on the end to turn the transmission. If they are stripped out you need a new armature, part number 16-01-3020. If the armature teeth are OK, you need a gear box assembly, part number 14-30-0920. If you don't have a tool repair shop near you to get parts from, you can find them on sites like www.ereplacementparts.com where prices are fair but you do have to pay S&H.

In most cases it is the "Bendix" or the over-running clutch, depending on what the part is called by your mechanics, parts stores, and garages locally.
I really like the pictures you show.
In your picture, you show the "business end" of the starter, or that end which fits inside the transmission housing that you normally do not see when the starter is bolted properly in place.
If you will look at your picture, you will see a tiny gear about 1 & 1/2 inches in diameter. This is the problem part, except that this gear is a part of the part called the "Bendix" or the over-running clutch.
You will be needing to take the starter all apart on your workbench and replace that part, which should cost you 10-30 dollars.
That gear itself is not the problem, it is the spring behind it most likely, or the Bendix is perhaps sticking on the central shaft and not returning due to dirt or rust. You will see when you dismantle it.
When you get the starter apart, go ahead and "rebuild" it!
Start with the solenoid.
Carefully take it apart, and take a piece of fine sandpaper and clean the copper round plunger, about the shape of a mushroom. You might also gently clean the contacts inside that touch the plunger.
If your solenoid has soldered connectors, skip this step.
Now dismantle the starter itself, remembering the brushes require some fancy finagling to get them back on the armature! ( Like using some paper clips to hold the brushes in their pockets to get the armature back into position).
You should clean the copper part of the armature with that fine sandpaper. That part of the armature is called the commutator.
Be really gentle here, and replace the brushes if they are worn way down. If you have a car parts store available, ask to see new brushes, to tell how much yours are worn.
I recommend you pack the bronze bearing inside the end cap of the started with a half-thimble full of good grease, and also grease the end of the armature that fits into the bronze bushing on the "business end" that goes inside the transmission housing.
(Have a good look at both the bronze bushings, to be sure neither is badly worn. The also are replaceable for a few $s.)

The Ryobi RJ160V does not have a clutch, it has a direct drive system: the armature has a gear pressed on the end of it that turns a bevel gear with an off-set pin on it. This pin fits into a slot on the end of the saw bar assembly which is what you attach the blade to. If you have slipping it could be stripped armature gear teeth or bevel gear teeth or both or the pin on the bevel gear is broke off.

Yes it should pull out with the armature. The plate can only be removed after you remove the nut and gear on the end of the armature. Make sure your brushes are pulled out first or they can hang up on the bearing at the other end of the armature which may be what is happening in your case.

The gear on the end of the armature is held on by a metric nut. The armature shaft is threaded. The larger gear is press fit onto the shaft. You need a hydrolic press to remove it.

No the armature gear is made as part of it. the intermediate gear is replaceable but you need a press. to remove the armature first unplug tool and remove brushes, then remove the 4 screws that hold the gear housing to the motor housing and pull out. the intermediate gear is pressed onto the shaft.. Let me know if you need more assistance before voting and thank you

You are looking at region of $150 and labour on top. I am putting a tip together on starters in general that I include herein. When you get your motor off it could be helpful and save you some money in the process:-

Dead...? Sticky solenoid due to corrosion or glued up lubricant and dirt ? dismantle and rub clean with some emery paper. Worn starter motor armature brushes ? strike motor body with end of a piece of timber whilst cranking; the jolt may encourage enough contact to get the starter motor running for long enough for ignition to occur. ? For a permanent fix dismantle the starter motor and replace the carbon brushes. Corrosion in the starter motor body between the steel jacket and aluminium gear casting.? insert self tapping screw between the two parts to bridge the corrosion? For a permanent fix remove motor and strip down and wire brush components back to the metal and then reassemble.

Click, click, click ...occasional start Worn contact plates in solenoid failing to provide high current to energize the starter motor windings? dismantle solenoid and replace copper contact plates and plunger ring (readily available as an inexpensive overhaul kit).

Wahr, wahr, warh...laboured motor Worn bronze bearings on the ends of the starter motor are allowing the armature to run off centre and grind against the surrounding field magnets on the inside of the motor body? dismantle motor and replace the bronze bearings (inexpensive fix). Over-drawing motor - high current is drawn but this is not translated into effective turning effort by the motor. The field magnet windings have begun to short out, probably as a result of age or through over use in constantly trying to start a poorly igniting engine ? replace/ exchange the starter motor as the field windings of the stator magnets on the motor body are fried and beyond repair. Wheeeeeeee ..no start Although engaged fully with the flywheel a slipping pinion gear clutch means that the motor is ineffectual at turning the engine over ? remove the starter motor and replace the pinion gear on the end of the starter motor shaft

Lottery start...occasional no start

• The motor occasionally refuses to turn first time and has a defined rhythmic pulse when turning over - this is due to either burnt out armature coil or the contact face of the armature has become badly pitted causing the brush to miss making contact.

? - replace/ exchange the starter motor as armature windings are beyond repair.

For parts give Royal a call at 1-800-524-0799.