It's a copper strip with a points contact pad on its end, inside a black plastic rectangular housing, apparently a switch. I can't find any info about it, nor any identifying marks. I messed with it before realizing the fuse was the culprit, and don't like the look of the switch, but don't know what to replace it with. The unit has a separate in-line switch on its cord, so what's this other ones function?
SOURCE: Acer Aspire 5003 Thermal Module
Greetings,
I believe that the 'silver pad' you are talking about is likely a thermal pad which creates intimate thermal contact in the same manner as a thermal compound. As long as the pad has not deteriorated then you can reuse it. If that helped please rate me well.
For Reference:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2295074
Take Care,
-WN
SOURCE: Panasonic Whisper Warm Heater Thermal cutoff. How to reactivate?
I had the same problem and mine was cause by a blown fuse. It's not too hard to fix. Remove the cover by pulling down and squeezing the wire arms on each side. You need a VERY long screwdriver to remove the entire motor/fan/light assembly from the housing (8 screws total). Place the assembly on the floor and look for the fuse on top. The fuse is on the motor, not near the heater portion. It is a ceramic, not glass, cylindrical fuse, 20 amps, 125 volts. This fuse is sold as a microwave oven fuse & costs about 2 bucks at a hardware store. Replace, reinstall, and you're done.
SOURCE: Garmin 650 won't hold charge in car -- same problem
Check power at the 12volt outlet to insure that you power is on at the connection. Try using a 12 volt convertor in the house to check the cord used in the vehicle.
SOURCE: Rice cooker Thermal fuse blows after one time use
Where Can I buy Tatung rice cooker inner pot?
SOURCE: It seems I need to
Hi debbie carls...
Your probably right, it could be the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
I will supply you with what you need to know, but you have to decide if it is too difficult for you to do.
I use this info below for when the dryers are not heating, some of it will apply to your situation.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me
466 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×