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Ivo Popjevalo Posted on Nov 02, 2017

My question : Could enybody tell me how many wats is my Maytag compresor model :gt2428PEFW #W 10309997 THE ORIGINAL COMPRESSOR IS EMBRACO -EGU-110 HLC 9 4/9 LRA 220-240 50/60 HRC R 134a John P.

Maytag compressor gt2428PEFW PART #W10309997

1 Answer

Michael Ponsano

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  • Posted on Nov 02, 2017
Michael Ponsano
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There should be a RLA number ( Running amps ) multiply by 110 and get WATTs

Testimonial: "the answer did not much for what i'was looking for !if you read specification ,on the compressor ? is 220-240 and all other 'markings' Thanks"

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1543 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 30, 2008

SOURCE: can't find compressor

The compressor is LG part number 2521C-A7256 which they have in stock. I believe this unit has a 7 year warranty on the parts of the sealed system (which includes the compressor) but this is most definitely not a do it yourself repair. Only someone certified to handle refrigerants, has the proper refrigerant recovery equipment, and charging equipment (and knows how to use them) should ever attempt to replace a compressor. Compressor failures are rare, and the unit should be diagnosed by a professional service technician, as most often your problem will not be the compressor, but some other issue. Please do not rate this solution as anything but a FixYa lowers my score.

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Bill Long

  • 606 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2010

SOURCE: on the unit model/serial# tag there is three

Compressor LRA ( locked rotor amps)meaning that if you hold that rotor and do not allow it to turn, it would draw that many amps.
Compressor RLA (rated load amps) meaning the amps the compressor will draw at a certain outdoor temperature usssually 95°.
Fan FLA (Full load amps) meaning that's the maximum amps the motor will run at continuosly.

Anonymous

  • 93 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2010

SOURCE: compressor doesn't run

check temperature control.

Anonymous

  • 78 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2011

SOURCE: what is LRA in compressor. whether LRA is used to

LRA is Lock rotor amps.
It is according to compressor capacity.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 02, 2012

SOURCE: Fridge not getting cold...but freezer is working

the fridge gets its cold air from the freezer fan blowing it through small air passages between the freezer and fridge. when you adjust the temperature in the fridge you are increasing/decreasing the amount of air being let into the fridge. Two common problems that could cause the freezer to freeze but not the fridge getting cool is the freezer coil is frooze like a ice cube blocking the air going to the fridge or freezer fan is not working could be bad or froze up due to too much ice. If fan works after manually defrosting problem could be in the auto defrost mechanism. If fan don't work after manual defrost replace fan. Manual defrost by putting a pot of very hot water in freezer with door closed change water foten until defrosted.

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It will rattle slightly, this is normal. The ones that are burned out will sound like they have gravel in them, you can defininely tell something is wrong.
The problem with diagnosing Kenmore fridges with this problem is that there are different manufacturers. Yours is built by Frigidaire and probably has a Tecumseh compressor. We find more failed compressors with the Tecumsehs than we do with the models that have Embraco compressors. The models with Embraco's generally have more relay failures.

You should not hear the buzz/hum at startup. You will need to replace the compressor, which will be replaced at no charge to you if it is less than 5 yrs old.
If it is older than 5 yrs, you can have it replaced, but it will be almost as expensive as a new fridge. You can buy an aftermarket start device called a 3-in-1. This has a start capacitor built in to give it a little more boost on start up. I don't recommend using them unless it is a short term fix until the compressor can be replaced or if it is out of warranty and there is nothing to lose anyway.
Thanks/Mike
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