Question about Washing Machines
MOST PROBABLE REASONS FOR A BUZZING SOUND IN WASHING MACHINE:
Drain hose: If the washing machine is functioning correctly but makes a hummingsound while draining, there could be a problem with the drain hose. ... Then unplug thewashing machine and turn off the taps supplying water to it. Unscrew the fill hoses from the water valve.3 Nov 2014 https://www.surewise.com/appliance.../8-reasons-why-your-washing-machine-is-hummi...
Based on your details, I would first check the drain pump to see if it's locked up due to a piece of clothing stuck inside the pump. You can remove the pump from the motor leaving the two hoses attached and then see if the motor will start. If it continues to just hum instead of starting, then it may be losing the start voltage. The motor needs start voltage and run voltage in order to start. The motor will just hum if it's not getting the start voltage. The start voltage circuit is usually the red and yellow wires. Check the yellow and red wires at the motor, capacitor and at the timer for a loose connection. Make sure the red and yellow wires are pushed in all the way at the timer terminal quick disconnect plug. 120 volts should be present when measuring across the red and yellow wires. Check the white wire with the black stripe too at the timer and motor.
Washer filles with water then buzzes Google Search
Posted on Nov 24, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: WASHER DOES NOT TURN
Sounds like the motor has frozen. Try to work the drum loose from the bottom (empty and unplugged) it just might be jammed from a pen or similar item lodged inside (someone not emptying their pockets). Since its buzzing (its the motor TRYING to move the drum) it has to be jammed from something. Rarely it could be a bearing locked up in either the drum or the motor itself though its unlikely.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
Sounds like a bad lid switch. When you close the top lid, there is a safety switch that closes, it is actuated by a pin attached to the lid, there will be a small hole located on top of the machine, somewhere on the perimter of the top of the tub. Could also be a bad timer.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
SOURCE: washer fills but won't agitate
Check your lid switch.
If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
A new lid switch or lid strike (if needed) can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. Please post back with a complete model number (located on a nameplate around the wash tub opening) with your questions, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this is helpful.
NOTE: You do not need to bail or empty the wash tub to complete this repair.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
Check to see if there is something(sock) in the pump. If not, try spin washer with pump hanging down, but not with hoses off.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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