The error E61 indicates that your water pump has failed or is not active. You should check the pump and replace it if needed. You should also check the steam generator sensor and replace it if needed.
For more information, contact Euronda at Water inlet pump inactive or call (+39) 0445 329811 (Vicenza, Italy)
SOURCE: Dark Screen, Lense focus gone and error code: E61:00 - Help!
In this situation (salt water) best thing is rinsing the equipment immadiatelly with tap water and drying it throughly and quickly (with hair dryer etc.) But its been three days, so the internal circuitry and metallic mechanisms are most probably affected from salt water since its highly corrosive. Now, you can send it to your dealer/camera manufacturer for throughly check and repair. I believe nothing you can do right now. And its probably still damp inside, means still affecting by corrosive salt water if you did not already dry it throughly.
SOURCE: Electrolux dryer error code e61
There is a 'tech sheet' in the back pf the dryer. Unplug machine, Remove the access panel on the back to get to it. Reach in and it should be there. It will tell you how to do a button check. You have to enter a test mode through the buttons.
The E 61 is a stuck button.
Enter function test mode and perform key
stuck closed (active). (button) test to determine which button is at
fault. Carefully free the and perform the test
again. If button is free but the key struck code
still exists, replace electronic control.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
SOURCE: Error code E9
High pitched noise is from a very high CO2 level. Adjust the gas pressure to stay above 11" w.c. and have a gas technician with a calibrated CO2 analyzer adjust the CO2 levels.
SOURCE: On Power up the error code E9 displays with a continuous beep
F9 is an Overflow Condition error. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door may remain locked, and the Drain Pump may run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. You will need to check to following:
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
3. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects
4. Check for Drain Pump Failure.
5. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off
6. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation.
1. Check the drain hose by removing it from the standpipe and pull a vacuum on it with a shop vac. It could be that you have an obstruction somewhere. You may have to check the drain pump and the drain hose just prior to the drain pump as well. This is the hose that attaches to the bottom of the tub. This area can get clogged with debris
2. Unplug the washer and remove the kick plate and top panel. Check for any loose connections at the drain pump, pressure switch (located in the right rear of the machine), and the CCU (located in the center rear of the washer behind the wash tub). You may have a loose or dirty connection somewhere. If you remove any connectors, make sure you write down where they go. It's best to only remove ONE connector at a time when checking the CCU. On the pressure switch, make sure the air hose is still attached. This is usually a clear or black rubber hose. With the air hose off, loose, or leaking, the switch will not work and the tub will continue to try to fill. The pressure switch can be checked by removing the the large connector plug from the front of the CCU at the very LEFT. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 4 to 5, and 4 to 6 should ALL read 0 ohms.
3. The drain pump. Remove the clean out cover on the pump and check for debris. Make sure you drain the water from the drain lines, pump and hoses PRIOR to removing the cover. Otherwise, you will have about a gallon or so of water to clean up. The shop vac method works great for this. If the pump is running and clear of foreign matter, the pump is probably not the problem. A meter reading across the pump motor windings at the connector plug should be about 15 ohms.
4. The inlet valve. If the inlet valve would fail in this manner, the tub would be trying to fill with water all the time and not shut off (even with the washer turned OFF). You need to ask yourself if you find standing water in the tub when not in use. Replace the water inlet valve if this is the case. Readings across the HOT and/or COLD solenoids should each read about 800 ohms.
5. The suds error. This occurs when air from too much detergent gets into the drain line. If you are using HE detergent (which is great, because on the newer models NOT using HE detergent voids your warranty), but HOW MUCH are you using? Some things to consider:
a. Do you have soft water? This can actually cause the soap to suds better making the need to cut back on how much you use.
b. Look at the detergent container. Is it double or triple concentrated? Some detergents are sold as extra concentrated which means you need to cut back on the amount you use. Not doing so can cause the water to over suds.
c. What size loads are you using the detergent in? Running small loads with the same amount of detergent can also cause over sudsing.
Rule out the simple common sense things first. If everything else checks out and your problem still persists, you may have a failed CCU or pressure switch
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