Sounds like you may have gotten something wet that shouldn't have during the coil cleaning process. Power unit sounds to be working, but control board may have been damaged.
Testimonial: "Thank you, Joshua Jenkins! It's been awhile since I posted my issue. I'm pleased to say that the issue was solved by merely allowing the unit to dry. A couple of days after posting this issue, I turned on the unit and it worked! Thanks for taking the time to respond to my issue!"
SOURCE: won't power up
This model has had problems with the keyboard buttons on the front panel,causing them not to work and canceling out the remote operation. To verify this,you need to remove the front panel so you can access the connector on the keyboard pc board and unplug the connector.After doing this,see if the remote control is able to turn on the tv (wait for it to power up because with the connector off, the green power light will be disconnected and will not light up when the tv is on) If the tv works, than you will need to change the ten individual switches on the board - part# 432P089010 (or just use the remote only)
SOURCE: Hoover Flair S2220 cleaner w/power nozzle disassembly instructions
With the head flipped upside down, take a flat tipped screw driver and carefully pry up the rollers on the front the head. Underneath, you'll find a screw. Remove the screw under each roller, and the front cover will come off with ease. The rollers are just friction fit.
SOURCE: Changing spark plugs on 2007 Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder
You are correct. The plugs are accessed below these coils. Disconnect the coil connectors and remove the 4 10mm bolts which hold the coils in place -- then you'll have access to the plugs. Here's a pic
By the way, how many miles on this 2007 Sonata? You know the powertrain is under warranty (1st owner 100,000 miles). If you're having problems, have Hyundai dealership diagnose it and fix it under warranty.
SOURCE: Durotherm Model 57915.331 - not cooling properly
Yes, you should remove the upper cover and check the back side of the condenser as Duo-Therms pull air in from the sides and blow it through the coils from inside the shroud. This usually will cause the compressor to shut down, but only after running for awhile. When you notice that the unit is not cooling as well, or not at all, got up on the roof and remove the shroud, check to see if the compressor is actually running. If the compressor is shut off, the problem lies elsewhere in the system. Check to see if the compressor is cycling on and off or if once it is off it stays off.
If you have a wall thermostat control, check for 12VDC power at the yellow wire when the compressor is off. If power is present, then remove the control box from inside the inner shroud of the unit and check for power at the yellow wire in the there. If it is still present, check for 120VAC power at the compressor relay (black wire with Purple or Blue wire). If the purple or blue wire have 120VAC power, then the problem is upstairs either with start capacitor or the thermal overload (located on top of Compressor). If there is no power at the purple or blue wire, try unplugging the freeze control and jumper the connection on the board (blue connection, white wires) with a small piece of wire, if the compressor comes on and runs, then you have a bad freeze control. If not, then you have a bad control board.
If you have manual controls on the ceiling unit, you could have a bad thermostat. Unplug power from the unit and remove the two wires on the back of the thermostat. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the two terminals, if there is, turn the knob and watch the meter. You should not lose connection until the temperature you set is above the temp. inside the unit. If this is ok, then you need to check the selector switch. Also check the components in the upper unit as described in the above paragraph.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
Rate me please!
SOURCE: My Reset button wont reset
Just guessing, here. The reset is actually a "Ground Fault Interrupter" called a GFI. It's there to cut of power in case of a dangerous electrical condition--which you probably don't have.
Did you unplug the unit? If not do so, let the GFI cool for several minutes, and try to reset again. They're pretty hard to push in, maybe use a fingernail, you must hear a click or it's not reset.
Is there water in the outdoor unit, or is it filled with snow? This is the most likely cause of an actual GFI fault.
If the GFI itself has failed (unlikely), you could replace the entire power cord. You should then maintain safety by installing a GFI circuit breaker on that circuit, or you'll be in violation of codes that might affect your homeowners insurance.
There could actually be a problem with the unit. This would be that an electrical wire has come loose and is contacting the metal chassis, creating a shock hazard. Unlikely but possible.
If the receptacal you're plugging into is old and worn it might the problem. Worn receptacles might actually have tiny electrical arcs inside, which can trip a GFI. At a couple of bucks (DIY) it's worth a shot.
If there's actually an electrical fault in the unit it can be found and repaired, but the cost of repair could very well be more than it's worth. Warranty?
936 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×