I have a MAH7500AWW which worked without
any problem for 7 years. I have the whole door assembly replaced
recently because the machine kept giving a message, " The door did not
appear to lock..." After a few repeated door closings and pressing
"off" & "start", I managed to start the cycle. It would work well
for a few cycles and stop again. When the door lock is energized and
closed, the wash cycle would complete without a hitch. Any help will be
greatly appreciated -- short of changing the main machine control
board. I checked all possible loose connections. I tested for
continuity for the door lock switch: P8(3) and the neutral and P1(1)
and the neutral prong of the power cord. Instead of a constant buzzing
sound of the voltmeter that I expected, both tests showed a reading.
This sounds like a classic door lock problem. There was a design change in the lock assembly because of numerous problems.
You say you had the door replaced, did they replace the lock assy also?
The control puts power to the wax motor that operates the latch. As the door locks, the latch activates the lock switch that tells the control the door is locked.
What kind of reading are you getting on the lock switch?
Thanks/Mike
According to the diagram I have,
You should have continuity through the door lock switch when the door is locked on P3-8 gray wire to P3-3 blue wire.
It sounds like you have a control problem.
The problem with diagnosing it is it being erratic. I would rather something break and stay broke. It makes it a lot easier to find the problem.
If you are losing the signal voltage across p3-8 and p3-3 when the latch closes, then the door lock switch should be working properly. If it still gives the door lock message when you can tell that the switch is closed with your meter, then the board is not sensing the voltage. You probably have a loose solder joint somewhere in the board and will have to replace the control.
Go through the checks you have in your tech sheet and see what you find out.
When the control locks the door, it puts 120VAC to the lock solenoid from P1-1. It sends 24VDC to the door lock switch from P3-3 and it returns to the board through P3-8. This signal voltage tells the board the door is locked.
If you have these readings and the door is locked but you still get the door lock code then the problem must be in the control.
Thanks/Mike
Great! Glad to be of some small help.
Thanks/Mike
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Hi
The issue is with the door lock assembly that is bad and
should be replaced. If the door lock assembly is bad the control will sense
that the door is open and so will not start a spin cycle. If you want you can
test the door lock assembly with a voltmeter before replacing it. Hope this
helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
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Usually answered in minutes!
Mike,
Thanks for the reply. I only changed the assembly, not the door. Having gotten a new one, I tested and compared the characteristics of the old with the new one; I really didn't find any difference.
The latch works intermittently, both for the new and old. The reading across P3-8 and P3-3 is 46.2 volt in an unlocked position, zero when locked. The door solenoid is ~62 ohms relative to the common, ~120 ohms lead-to-lead. Tested both the "Door Close" and door switches; both worked.
When tried to start a cycle, the machine would return an error message that the door did not lock. I then toggled the solenoid lever to latch and unlatch the door, repeating the "off" then "start" cycles, the machine would magically start with one of these trials (the lid of my machine was up, but the door hinges were fastened without the front cover).
When I ran the diagnostics, I got code 47 all the time. When I cycle-tested it, the test would complete without a hitch if the machine were able to close the door latch. Otherwise, all functions would complete, except for the spin.
Once the cycle starts, the wash would complete perfectly. Loose connections?
I will attempt to follow the solenoid circuit segment by segment next. Any suggestion for a short-cut.
Many thanks,
Kim
Mike,
Your last message reinforced my hunch that I might have a loose
connection somewhere in the circuit. I decided to unplug every connection in
the machine and re-seated them making sure that every contact point was
affected. It worked!! I tested with 20 odd start/stop cycles,
disconnecting and reconnecting the plug to the wall outlet. I stopped the testing before I break
something else. The machine still works!
Many thanks,
Kim
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