Frigidaire dryer LEQ1442EOS control board. I check out the control board and the timer terminal on the board was black and burned out. I replaced the board in April. What could be causing the problem?

DR is door error
this generation of dryer has allot of control board failures(the relay for the heat burns the terminals for the wires)
you can inspect these relay connection visibly by removing the front control panel. If those look good, you will need to replace the control board. Here is the control board to order.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.

Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

test the push button for open and faulty .However see this causes too.

Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.


Heating Element

Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.


Cycling thermostat

Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.

dr is door error
this generation of dryer has alot of control board failures(the relay for the heat burns the terminals for the wires you can inspect these relay connection visably by removing the front control panel you might want to try setting the machine to the fluff/air dry setting and try starting the dryer, if it starts in air fluff you need to check the connections on that relay this is not a factory taught test.its just something a customer pointed out one time and i have tried on many after the fact, and for whatever reason these machines will still run in fluff mode when the board is fried

may have burned the motor out.... if this unit has a control board on it most likely would have shorted it out first if a standard/basic gas dryer will a timer knob then power would have either burned timer,or motor up first.... good luck to you that really stinks....

Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
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The error code 9E indicates that low voltage is being detected at the control board of the dryer. This could be caused by the following factors:

• The electrical power supply to the dryer is bad. Check the dryer outlet for proper voltage (120 volts AC).
• Unplug the dryer and check the wiring of the dryer outlet plug. A loose wire on the terminal block could cause this problem.
• If you are able to safely access the control board in the console, check the red wire that connects to the heater relay on the board. (NOTE: The dryer should always be unplugged when accessing internal components.) A loose wire or burned connection in this area could result in this error code.
• A failed control board could cause this problem.

If you are unable to determine and repair the cause of this problem, I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

Good Luck

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The error code E9E indicates that low voltage is being detected at the control board of the dryer.

This could be caused by the following factors:

* The electrical power supply to the dryer is bad. Check the dryer outlet for proper voltage (120 volts AC).

* Unplug the dryer and check the wiring of the dryer outlet plug. A loose wire on the terminal block could cause this problem.

* If you are able to safely access the control board in the console, check the red wire that connects to the heater relay on the board.

(NOTE: The dryer should always be unplugged when accessing internal components.)
A loose wire or burned connection in this area could result in this error code.

* A failed control board could cause this problem.

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The error code E9E indicates that low voltage is being detected at the control board of the dryer.

This could be caused by the following factors:

* The electrical power supply to the dryer is bad. Check the dryer outlet for proper voltage (120 volts AC).

* Unplug the dryer and check the wiring of the dryer outlet plug. A loose wire on the terminal block could cause this problem.

* If you are able to safely access the control board in the console, check the red wire that connects to the heater relay on the board.

(NOTE: The dryer should always be unplugged when accessing internal components.)
A loose wire or burned connection in this area could result in this error code.

* A failed control board could cause this problem.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Check the terminal block where the cord attaches to the dryer. Sometimes a bad connecion can cause the terminal block and/ or cord to burn up.