Hi, Do you need to tape and mud drywall in the kitchen before cabinets are installed?

2 or 3 days, plus or minus depending on how fast the mud dries.

By beading, are you referring to drywall tape? If this is cracked and you want to repair the tape, I suggest you use a nice cove mold to cover up the lose tape. Otherwise you'll need to remove the old tape, smooth out the popcorn ceiling area, re-tape the corning then feather it in, then texture the ceiling again. The trip is much easier to do. It's cleaner, quicker and really would look nice.

Will it stick? yes but unless you want to keep the same look, I opt for the cove mold.

just go to any hardware store and buy any drywall mesh tape on that width (2" - 50mm) and approximately same length (50yds to 60yds), virtually all of them have same internal diameter, therefore you should not have any problem with putting it into the dispenser.

do not bother with brandname! generic tape work as well and is half the price! tapeis glued only to tack to the wall, then mud is holding it.

If you live near a Home Depot or Lowes they sell partial sheets of drywall. Cut a square slightly larger than the damaged area from the new drywall. Trace this around the damaged area and then cut out the damaged area with a key hole saw or sawzaw or if you don't have those just your utility knife. You can probably buy all the tools and materials for a lot less than hiring someone. Since you said the hole is next to a door you shouldn't have to worry about electrical wires, but just in case, take a flashlight and look into the hole before you cut to make sure. Now you should have a hole the size and shape of the new piece you cut. The area against the door is against studs and you'll have to just keep cutting with your knife until you get through to the wood. Now, on the other side of the hole across from the door take a piece of scrap wood and put it inside the hole and press it against the inside of the wall so half the scrap wood is behind the wall and the other half is exposed in the hole. While you're holding the scrap wood you'll need to screw 1 1/4" drywall screws through the existing drywall and into the scrap wood. The scrap wood should now be tight against the back of the drywall and partially exposed to resemble the stud on the other side by the door jamb. Now you have backing for your patch. Place the patch you cut earlier in the hole and screw it in place. A screw gun or drill with #2 philips head screw tip will make this job easier. The screws should be counter sunk just slightly so the heads don't rip the paper. If you do rip the paper you'll need to put in another screw near that one or else you'll have problems later, especially near a door. Now finish the hole with joint compound. You can buy this at most hardware stores in a one gallon bucket. You'll need a role of drywall tape as well. I recommend the fiberglass mesh tape for ease. Also you'll need a taping 6" taping knife and a tray.
Fill the joint compound tray half way and mix it around with your knife until smooth. Take the fiberglass tape and stick it to the wall around the patch to cover where you cut. Spread a thick layer of joint compound over the fiberglass tape and then gently wipe it all off with one or two strokes. Repeat this until all the tape is covered with a thin layer of "mud" (joint compound). Make sure all the screw holes get filled too. Let this dry for several hours, maybe overnight. Put the excess mud back in the bucket and clean your tools. When the first coat is dry take your 6" taping knife and scrape away any blobs of mud that you left behind from the first coat and then apply a second coat. You may need a third coat. Sand the joint compound until smooth tapering the edges to the paper. Again, be careful not to sand the paper too much, you don't want to go through. If you have smooth walls, you're in luck, now just paint. If you have textured walls then you have more work. you can get spray texture in an aerosol can at the hardware store. Read the instructions on the can and practice on the left over drywall from your patch. Note: you'll never make a perfect match with this aerosol texture but you can get it close. The only way to get a perfect match is to use a compressor and and special spray gun for joint compound and it takes some practice. You can rent these things in most towns if you're very particular. Good luck

If it is a flat smooth ceiling slightly v-grove the crack and apply Fiberglass drywall tape apply 3 coats of drywall compound making the mud feather out sand prime and paint

The TapeBuddy drywall taping tool is the answer to your taping problem. A one step drywall tape and joint compound application tool that makes taping easy. It's lightweight, easy to assemble and applies an even amount of joint compound directly to the joint tape. It even applies more compound to the tape center where more compound is needed. Just load with paper or Fibafuse tape and joint compound, pull out the coated tape, cut, apply to the seam and embed. There is no need to pre-mud drywall joints or carry around heavy tools. Taping walls, corners and ceilings is fast with no mess. TapeBuddy is a great DIY tool that will give you professional results. It is easy-to-use and the perfect tool for any drywall taping project.
The tool comes with easy-to-understand How To information on taping drywall. There is a how to manual on their website.

If wood glue is adhered to a painted surface, and the paint is adhered to sheetrock ... you are not facing good news.

I painted and did sheetrock for years.
Here's how I'd handle the problem.

Use sharp utility knife and cut through the sheetrock paper around object that is glued.
Once the paper is cut, you can tear off glued item and it will remove as little of the wall as possible.

Next, but some sheetrock mud.
But not your usual type.
Get the powered bag that you mix with water.
They make 15 minute set up, and 45 minute, etc.
Don't buy paper drywall tape for this job.
Buy the fiberglass tape that looks like a screen.
Clean up you wall so it's smooth.
Use knife to cut a taper edge around each broken area of sheetrok >>> this will keep the edges down so they're not sticking up
Mix up the drywall mud so its like toothpaste.
Apply mud into wall damage.
Here's the trick ... do not build it up so you have to sand it off.
Keep it low.
Put the mud on the wall.
Push the tape into the mud.
It won't be perfect.
Smooth as much as possible using your 6" drywall knife.
Do the project in stages.
Let it dry.
Take your 6" mud knife and use it like a spatula to scrape down the high points.
Keep it low so you're not sanding.
Mix more mud.
Apply a THIN coat over repair.
Let it dry.
Scrape it again with the mud knife.

Bring a table lamp over to where you're working.
Put the table lamp up close to the wall so the light casts across the repair.
The light will let you see the high and low points in the repair
Keep floating mud in very THIN coats until the wall is smooth
Put a coat of paint over repair.
Use the light again to look for dips and weaves in the surface.
Smooth it out with the mud
Paint the wall.

If you get stuck in the project, answer back and I'll give words of encouragement.

cut the drywall, square,from the center of one stud to the center of the next stud and remove. Now cut a new piece to fit and nail or screw in place. Tape the joints with mesh tape and coat with drywall mud. Use a ten inch broad knife for this. One coat of mud and let dry. Next day another coat of mud pull it tight this time and let dry Sand and apply desired texture