Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
First, I'm not a Whirlpool representative.
* Check your warranty. Call for support;
*** The following is for information only.***
* Original question was slow ice making or melted ice;:
* Most common is ice build up in freezer coils. This happens every time the door is opened. Ice builds up on coils but is normally removed during a daily defrost cycle.
* The cycle may be unable to defrost all ice due to bad air circulation. Usually caused by rubbish blocking fan intake (bottom of freezer tray or wall.) Overloading food may cover the intake.
* Remove all food from freezer. Check for fan blockage. There should be a steady flow of cold air. If not then your freezer needs to be defrosted.
* Defrost by moving all frozen food to fridge side or cooler. Unplug fridge and open freezer door (drawer). Allow room air to circulate into the freezer. Use a house fan to blow air into freezer. (DO NOT use Hair dryer! It will damage panels.)
* Check and remove melted ice water. Check inner panels of freezer. Once defrosted the panels will be room temperature to the touch. There should not be any condensation or coldness to the panel. If it's still cold then keep defrosting.
* Once the water stops dripping. then close freezer doors.
* plug in freezer and wait 5 mins. Check freezer if inside is cold and the air is blowing cold. Reload freezer with food, take care not to overload or cover fan intake. Monitor for 2 days.
* Cleaning (Official); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AooBAPlk-Ts
* French door drawer; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZYLIRN_pk0
* Removing trays; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxTliAhbr14
* Cleaning the back with a vacuum cleaner; https://www.hunker.com/13419629/how-to-clean-samsung-refrigerator-coils
* Freezer not blowing air or not cold? Bad fan, thermostat, pump. Call for service.
Posted on Sep 05, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
Did any of the repairmen replace the heater which is at fault or did all three of them change it? If it has not been changed then I would suggest that it should be. If it continues to be a problem then you can get drainline heaters added to the system but you would need to talk to a fridge guy before they wasted a journey. The other possibility is that the front cover is not inside the drain pan or a leak in the drain pan, and if you have an icemaker you could even get water coming from further up the cabinet. Either way I would suggest picking your favourite of the three and tell them that the problem is unresolved. Most fridge guys offer some sort of warranty on work that they do. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Sep 11, 2007
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Defrost heaters are not coming on. Check with multi meter..is it frost, or ice freezing under the fan-blades. That my friend is a blocked drain hole. Otherwise ohm out defrost heater should read 30to69 ohms of resistance. Timer may be stuck, or a hi-temp safety switch is not closing (a small disc at the top of the coils) when it comes out of defrost. Carweful with that gun, Jim! Too much heat warps all that chinese plastic. Chris in bigbEar
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
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