Error code EA - No sparks for the electrodes
The ionization electrodes are not making sparks when water is flowing. There are many reasons for this problem and here are some; low gas pressure, fan speed is low, wire connections are loose, the air in the gas line, no gas.
SOURCE: i have a 250SX aquastar bosch tankless hot water
The 250 MUST have the condensate line connected. EC comes from gas supply problems and CO2 levels not being adjusted. LP units require 3/4" smooth gas pipe or 1" corrugated pipe minimum size. The LP regulator needs to be turned up to about 13 inches of water column and with all the gas appliances on, measure no less than 11 inches of water column. The CO2 levels must be measured by a qualified gas technician with a calibrated (with in 6 months) CO2 analyzer.
SOURCE: Water will not stay hot
Did you ever figure this out? Ours was working fine and then all of a sudden is luke warm .
SOURCE: i have the bosch
how is heating element ? Wasit on with no water running thru it. Does it have a reset?
SOURCE: Bosch SX 250 tankless water heater will attempt to
The flame is sensed by a small metal rod that is immersed in the flame. When you look at the flame inspection window on the lower right of the combustion chamber, then just inside the window you should see 3 rods, and following them down below, then are connected to 3 yellow wires.The right most rod is the flame sensor. It detects the flame when the 118 volt sine wave is rectified by the flame. No flame, 118 volt P-P, flame; flame ignited, half wave only.
EA & EC codes are basically the same, the flame is not detected. EA indicated that during the initial ignition stage there were several errors, while EC tells us that the flame was undetected after the start-up had happen. This is intended to detect that the flame is not burning, and as a safety, shut off the gas supply. If you watch the right hand rod, the flame detector as the startup occurs, and on into the operational period, if you get that far, you may observe that the flame doesn't extinguish, but rather jumps above the detector rod, which also causes the safety to loose the flame retification signal, and shut down. If you vent is clear, you have tested your gas pressure according to the manuel, and the flame does ignite at all, then you likely have the wrong combustion and your CO2 will not be the value for the fuel you are using. You will need to get an expensive device called a Combustion Analyzer to be able to set the correct CO2 levels out the flue. You may be better advised to obtain the services of a pro who has this analyzer and experience using it. Most combustion analyzers need frequent maintenance to replace the O2 sensor inside to have the device read properly.
When you remove the outer cover to service and adjust the system, you should see 2 yellow dabs of sealer that cover the 2 adjustment setting screw heads. The final determination of the correct combustion must be made with the cover in place and tightened. To make that much easier, take a careful measurement from a near by wall, and floor to the center of the 2 adjustment ports with their covers opened. Reinstall the outside cover and mark these 2 points from the previous measurements, and drill a 1/2" hole at each place to allow the tool to fit into the adjustment screws while the cover is mounted. (remove the cover while you drill it!) Follow the manual for setting the P1 & P2 to the correct CO2 level. These adjustments are sensitive and take time to settle after a small tweak - go slow!
Call a qualified service tech immediately.
Gas explosion indicates dirty combustion parts, and gas is not fully igniting when tankless turns on the gas. So gas builds up and then explodes causing serious damage to tankless, and serious risk to homeowner.
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