Hi, Sounds like the valves need to be adjusted. You need to readjust and also check the timing. Hope that helps.
Probably needs to be timed. It's kinda hard with points because they have to be gapped i think.
SOURCE: 8n tractor runs good at first then after awhile starts to sputte
Check fuel filter in the shut off bowl. Then check the needle and seat in the fuel sediment bowl on the bottom of the carb.Also check the float when you pull off the sediment bowl.
SOURCE: JOHN DEERE 318 LAWN TRACTOR WONT START
ok, since you have the points, I assume you have the B43g Onan
engine. Was it running before the new parts were installed?
Check your point gap and make sure it is .016, plugs ahould be gapped at .025 Make sure your plug wires are good too. Should be somewhere between 0 and 10,000 ohms per foot, when measured with an ohmmeter. Once everything is rechecked for gap distance, make sure there is no spark by pulling plug out, leaving wire on and ground the outside of plug to the chassis of the tractor.
Crank over and look for the spark. Coils are about $100, so you want to eliminate everything else first.
Diagnosing a points ignition for no spark is really simple. Do you have 12V at the coil? Do you get a spark when you connect and disconnect the negative terminal of the coil to ground? If not you have a bad coil.
SOURCE: HAVE A JOHN DEERE 318 LAWN TRACTOR, CHANGED POINTS
Check the coil impedance on the primary and secondary side. You'll have to disconnect the battery negative cable so you don't short something out. Unplug the spark plug wires and the two sets of smaller wires connected to the primary side of the coil. The primary coil reading should be between 3.7 ohms and 4.6 ohms while the secondary (spark plug side) should be between 34.2 k-ohms and 41.6 k-ohms. If the resistance values you measure are outside of these ranges, you need to replace the coil.
SOURCE: no spark at spark plug center of Coil
2000 ford escort ZX2. 4cyl . No spark at the spark plug. Wires are good.
SOURCE: 8n (front mount distributor)seems to be frying
Had the same problem, but was my fault for bypassing the ballist resistor (my bad). Anyway, I fried the coil. Read all the posts and bought new 12 volt coil (it has been converted before I got it 13 years ago). New points, condenser, cap, rotor. Now it is just my timing is a little off, but I have strong sparky but not enough to fry my coil again.
If anything, keep the ballist resistor. it is needed to drop the voltage to the coil so it doesn't fry.
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