Bought a kit fan motor/defrost wire/thermostat. Opened it up and found a large ice block at the top of the radiator, the radiator itself was clean and clear. Measured 30 ohms on heater and fan was spinning fine. Replaced the thermostat by splicing in new one. Used one of those red inline crimp on with the blades, instead of the included connectors they were too big. I'm an electrical engineer, have the parts. Wrapped up good with black tape. Started it up, went fine. Got up in the morning, freezer was cooling OK, but opened door and there was NO light - no power anywhere! Then I heard a beep and the lights came on, display lit up with the set points. Then all power off again a few minutes later. No power anywhere, even light in ice/water dispenser dead. Seems all power going on and off. Was fine before. All I did was use a hair dryer to melt the ice block at the top of the radiator enough to pull it out to replace the thermostat. Could the thermostat be getting moisture and shorting? Connectors were wrapped tight. Of is it cycling all power because the pump is getting hot? Ideas? Thanks in advance!!
Evaporator coils should have uniform frost pattern over whole coil. If there is a block of ice only at top, your unit most likely has a freon leak and is low on freon. If whole evaporator coil is a block of ice, then it’s a defrost problem.
SOURCE: Hotpoint FZA50 Freezer not cold enough
try it on max setting. lint clogging up stuff in the back? needs defrosting? low on refrigerant (freon)? call repairman for that last one
hi
Step 1: If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.
Step 2: If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.
Step 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.
Step 4: If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.
SOURCE: refrigerator/freezer not cooling evenly top to bottom
good then go ahead and ohm out the sensor and the relays to see if the resistance is close to the normat. 70 degrees is roughly 1000 ohms. relay you are lookling for continuity or open. then you can also ohm the fan motor too. let me know what you find;.that will determin whts bad and whats good
SOURCE: Error Code ER FF
I had the same problem. I can tell you that simply unplugging the fridge and letting it defrost isn't going to work. You need to get take it apart.
I had the Er FF code about 2 months ago and let the freezer defrost for a couple hours and it started working again. Then two days ago I got the error again. This time I decided to get inside there.
First and foremost, UNPLUG the fridge and TURN OFF the water!
Next empty everything out of the freezer and start taking it apart. You have to get everything out of it to get that back panel off. This includes the ice maker and the rails that the drawers slide on.
Now that the freezer is completely empty there are two screws that hole the back panel on. In my freezer one is a white screw high in the center and one was a gold screw in the little panel that the ice maker hooked up to.
Next grab the back panel by the little fins on the top of it in the middle. Give it a good firm pull, but take care not to yank it too far... it's still connected by wires back there. When I pulled my panel out I found a HUGE chunk of ice on the top of the panel just to the right of the fan that feeds cold are to the fridge. Get that thing off of there taking care not to damage the foam insulation and watch those shiny metal fins that are behind the panel.
While you're putting it back together try to dry everything off as much as possible (I tried see the bright side of the whole evolution and realized I could really clean my freezer).
Once it's all put back together plug that baby in, turn on the water, and enjoy the next four hours as it gets back to being cold.
I'd say you need moderate tinkering skill to do this. If you only own one screwdriver and you never use it you should probably call someone.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: Self defrosting deep freeze not defrosting
The excess frost in those areas is probably caused by leaky door gasket seals. They should be tight enough to hold a dollar bill securely all the way around. A defrost problem would start on the coils behind the back cover inside the freezer and would also appear on the back wall before it did on the door edges.
Thanks for your post, friend!
I understand that your ice cream inside of your Frigidaire refrigerator, FFUS2613L. I would turn down your thermostat to see if that would help correct the issue of your ice cream not freezing. I hope this helps. -Matt
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