Less then a year old. I prime the carburetor with the small push button, full choke and one pull it will rev up but by time I can try to adjust the choke and run speed it will stop and not start again. Two days later same result.
I do not have a Homelite blower, however Your symptoms seem to be pertinent to all small engines of that ilk. I have had several Weedeaters that did the same thing and I found that the cause was leaving fuel in the tank over the winter and the gas part of the fuel evaporates leaving the oil part as a residue that gunks up the carburetor and the jets do not feed fuel properly. If you use alcohol gas along with the oil at a proper ratio, the gas left in the machine leaves the water that the alcohol contains adding to starting woe.The simplest thing to do is to get some starting fluid and exposed the air filter so you can spray a generous amount into the filter. (Be careful, the starting fluid is very volatile and may cause a fire) When the blower starts, keep spraying a shot into the air filter until the machine seems to run. by jiggling the choke you should be able to smooth out the running. Eventually after several tanks of fuel should clean out the solidified gunk.
SOURCE: I have a Homelite Yard Broom gas blower that won't prime/stalls.
Hello sodevine69:
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Fuel Filter in the Tank Requires Changing, the Carburetor Metering Jet is Stuck, the Carburetor Filter/Screen is Restricted and Requires Cleaning/Replacing or the Carburetor Requires Cleaning.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Replacing the Fuel Lines and the Filter on Chain Saws and Trimmers. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Fuel Line is Pushed and Pulled (I Use Long Needle Nose Pliers) Through the Small Hole Until the Hose is Out the Fill Hole about a 1/2".
>>You can Also Use a Coat Hanger with a Small J at the End to Hook the Filter in the Tank and Pull the Filter and Hose (if Detached from the Carburetor) Out the Tank Fill Hole Enough to Replace the Filter.
>>Then Attach the Filter and Pull the Hose Back Until the Filter Lays at the Bottom of the Tank Just Below the Fill Hole (or so it is in the Bottom of the Tank and will Rest in the Fuel Mix when Turned at Common Angles the Unit May be Turned to During Operation.
>>**Hint: Use Plenty of Spray Lubrication at the Small Hole as you are Feeding in the Hose. It Slides Easier.**
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace are the Needle Valve and Metering Pump Diaphram.
>>The Metering Pump Diaphram is Under the Carburetor Plate with 4 Small Screws in it.
>>The Dowl on the Diaphram should Just Touch the Metering Jet Actuator Arm.
>>The Actuator Arm is Adjusted by Carefully Bending the Actuator Arm Up or Down to get the Correct Clearance.
>>If you Order a Kit, then Replace All the Old Components with the New Ones in the Kit even if the Old Parts Look Good.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers.
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine.
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
jbridger (John)
SOURCE: Craftsman generator, several years old,
pour a little raw fuel into carb intake. try to start. if engine runs for a few seconds and quits the problem is more than likely a clogged carb. go to auto store and get a gallon can of carb clreaner and dissassemble carb and lower into bucket and let soak over nite. you'll want to get a carb kit to replace any gaskets that may get messed up during tear down. when you go back together make sure to wash any residue of cleaner out of carb and use a small nozzel air blower on air hose to blow out ALL passages any needle valves have to screw into. take a can of carb cleaner and with the small straw place over hole and squirt into hole. make sure cleaner come out some where in carb body. that way you know all the passages are open. reassemble and crank her up.also invest in a compression guage. remove pllug and screw gauge into plug hole. pull sharply at least 5 times and see what the reading on the guage is. should be at least 70 or better. if rings and valves in good condition don't be surprised at a reading of 120 or better.
SOURCE: runs for a few seconds then stops
there are two screws on the carburator one is for air other for gas .that need ajusment
SOURCE: carburetor adjustment for Homelite 2 cycle engine
I have the same problem with my MightyLite 26cc Blower/Vac. If it does start it runs rough on full choke and stalls on 1/2 choke or run. I've tried everything, fresh fuel, Seafoam, etc. Nothing works. First time I used it the exhaust burned a hole in my brand new Carhartt hooded sweatshirt. Best solution, throw it away, never buy another Homelite product and tell anyone who will listen what a piece of junk Homelite products are.
SOURCE: My Homelite 26b will run at full choke but will
make sure your fuel mixture is correct also check t your air cleaner it will not run right without it or if it extremly dirty
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