Bad flame sensor or blocked burn tube
Maybe motor is faulty,if sensors are good
Try gas valve coils also
Your symptoms suggest that the fan motor is not working or the fan blades will not turn. Have someone listen or stand by the exhaust vent to feel for air flow during the 10 seconds that the heating element first heats up. The fact that some component, probably the overheat thermostat is "asking" or demanding the unit to shut down after some time suggests that heat buildup takes place with no way to vent it or remove it from the clothes heating space. Some dryers have a heating duct formed by part of the hollow door and a thermostat might be "hiding" there and delivering the shutdown if there is lint buildup in the hollow door.
SOURCE: Crosley Dryer Heats then stops
If im thinking right, this dryer has the element in the top left corner. This unit has two thermostats, one mounted right above the element, and the other in the lower left front mounted on the fan housing. The one in the front is called the high limit thermostat, which means when it gets to a preset high temp, it cuts off the system until cooling occurs. The top thermostat, mounted above the element is the operating thermostat. It probably is one of the two thermostats. Its a very good idea to replace not only both of the thermostats, but the fuse as well. The fuse kit (Maytag Part# LA-1053) comes with a thermostat and 2 fuses, be sure to follow he instructions on how to determine the fuse for electric and gas. The high limit thermostat (Maytag Part# 53-0771) is an easy replacement. Something is causing the unit to short cycle. Sometimes you can hot-wire the operating thermostat (use caution, severe caution if doing this, not recommended if you arent sure whats going on). By doing this (removing the two wires from the thermostat, taping them together), you can watch and see if the element stays on longer, at least until the high limit switch comes on. This is really not recommended, if the high limit is out, it will not be good. Just easier to replace them both.
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat.
THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.
IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.
IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.
SOURCE: Maytag MDBH970AWS Heating element won't turn off
The heater relay is located on the control board, a faulty relay or a faulty control board would cause the problem you have described. The fix is to replace the control board. Parts for your unit should be available from most appliance parts retailers, if there is not one local to you, the part is available at www.apliancepartspro.com. along with an exploded view of your unit
Hope this helps.
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SOURCE: My Whirlpool ultimate care II dryer stopped
You have to use a multimeter and troubleshoot the problem by testing the components in the heating circuit
SOURCE: kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat
Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .
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