What how to do diagnostics on a frididaire front loader atf6000es

SOURCE: Frigidaire ATFB7000ES0 ERR PAU 3 beeps

An E-45 code is a control board issue & needs to be replaced

SOURCE: frigidaire front load washer wont spin 43 error

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old
man who has been making his own repairs for about
50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
much to me. It's been about 55 years since I had
experience with front load washers. However I can
suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where
they have very good trouble shooting and repair
information on front loaders. I think you'll find what
you need there. You can search for the meaning of
the error code on the site.Don't worry about the
timer, they hardly ever go bad.Good luck with it.

SOURCE: The door locks when the start button is pressed,

DOOR SWITCH ERROR

If the door has not been opened for 3 consecutive cycles or the door switch is open while the door is locked for more than 5 seconds.

Possible Causes/Procedure

-Door not opened during 3 consecutive cycles.

1. Open and close the door.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

-Door switch open while door is locked.

1. Push the door and check if it is completely closed.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.@#$%

SOURCE: My Washer GLTF2940ES1 does not

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Testimonial: "Thanks I have tried and cleaned out the filter pump and lines, still does not spin. Dave Perry"

SOURCE: Frigidaire GLTF2940ES2 error code E48. Did

Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I understand you have a Frigidaire GLTF2940ES2 series washer with an error code E48, correct ?
If you've decided to go the route of replacing one or the other for your diagnostic procedure, the lock assembly is cheaper...and more likely of the two in my opinion.
Not having any way of being sure until you try it or test with an ohm meter...which you stated as not having is a disadvantage though (they can be had for less than $20 too).
**If you get a meter to test...the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.**

**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**

I'd also suggest ruling out any loose wires at the control. It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.

What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, recognizing an unlocked/locked door latch i.e.


If loose, push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )

If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch (95% of the time), so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...There should be a tech sheet underneath the tub assembly behind the access panel for test procedure of the switch.

**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequentlydrenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace.

As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.

1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**

2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.








3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.




4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Here is also a helpful link of the part and a video presentation to perform the change...
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Switch-Assembly/131763202/1531974

Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.

Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)