I am in Australia so my comment relates to that OZ power supply. The first thing I’d do would be to check the pump to eliminate it as the problem. To do that I’d disconnect at the supply end of the pump’s electric cable and make up a 3 pin plug patch lead and supply power to the pump directly through an RCD protected outlet, and see if the pump works independently of the control board. That would confirm the pump is ok and not going to earth (which would trip the RCD.)
Do the water inlet solenoids come off that board? Because if they are, and are mains voltage, check them the same way. Check everything that comes off that board at the appropriate voltage independently.
There will be temp and water flow and drum-wobble sensors which will be low voltage and all need to be independently checked at the right voltage for each to eliminate them as the problem.
A digital multimeter checking the sensors probably won’t do any damage (blow them up).
Visually check the board visually for any burnt or blown components. Some boards have a thermal fuse in the circuit.
Asko should be able to supply the circuit for the board and it’s values. NZ Govt has legislation that compels Asko to provide this info. We got a new board from Asko NZ by post.
SOURCE: ERROR F3 - WHAT DO I DO?
hi the error shows bcoz of ur door problem...
replace the door lock and ur problem will be solved...
SOURCE: My Asko W6441 front load washer F3 message
Hello. You said that you checked the drain line for obstructions, but did you check the pump? I would remove the hoses from the pump and using a flashlight, look into the suction port on the pump. Check the pump for any obstructions (like the occasional stray sock) and check the pump impellers. Look for broken/missing blades and ensure that the impeller spins freely. If there are missing/broken blades or if you cannot get the impeller to spin freely, the pump is defective. You may have already done this, and if so I apologize. Anyway, hope this helped and best wishes.
SOURCE: Frigidaire Front Load Washer won't Spin
i fixed mine about 5 times and its always some thing diffrent.
try buyng the inexpencive parts first and leave for last the electronic control panel.
it could be that your washing a smaller amount than the recomended.
Take it to a profesional. dont do like me a DIY guy. Some times i need to take pictures when taking the monster appart and then because they are somany screws missing duct tape, rope or hangerwire becomes usefull.
All mechanics are wise guys you and me are thevictims.
SOURCE: I just purchased a kenmore
"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:
1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front
If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump
The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:
- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).
NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.
NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.
- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.
- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.
Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.
NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.
If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.
If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.
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