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I need new valves for my dual flush, close coupled toilet cistern with flush buttons on the top. Do Fluidmaster make ones compatible with this type of cistern?
Thank you for the reply - I did go to a plumbers merchants and they actually did sell compatible valves by Fluidmaster so problem solvedThank you for the reply - I did go to a plumbers merchants and they actually did sell compatible valves by Fluidmaster so problem solved
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This simple how to, is based upon most lever operated toilets, with the cistern mounted above the toilet bowl. The make and model of toilet used for this feature is of the following: Toilet and internal syphon DUDLEY ELITEDudley S7 Cascade syphon Problem: My toilet will not flush, but the ball float valve is working and there is water in the cistern; no leaks present and the flushing lever is not broken or disconnected, what do I do? Answer: first isolate the water to the toilet or the main water supply to the house. Bail out the water from the cistern using a small jug or cup, (or you can syphon the water manually using a hosepipe or similar pipe, a towel to cover your mouth, and either a bucket or the toilet bowl) and remove water from the bottom of the cistern with a sponge.
Changing the syphon in a toilet that is not close coupled is far easier as you do not need to remove the cistern from the wall!
Undo the lower of the two large nuts beneath the cistern using a large pipe wrench or pair of water pump pliers, now disconnect the flush pipe and push it to one side. Place a bucket or bowl beneath the cistern and undo the Nut which is immediately below the cistern (syphon replacing nut), some water may be released by the syphon, take note of any washers that are removed as new ones need fitting when replacing the siphon. Unhook the lift rod from the flushing lever and remove the syphon.
Inside the toilet syphon, there will be a small plastic piece of sheet called a diaphragm; you can fabricate a replacement using the plastic title cover on a DVD case. Cut this to the exact same size and shape as the original part, and fit this to where the original diaphragm was. This is your new replacement.
Refitting is a complete reversal of removal, be sure to fit any washers (preferably new ones) that you have taken out. Ensure everything is tight but do not over tighten before refilling the cistern
cisterns never completely empty as the setting of the mechanism to close the valve is activated when it gets heavier than the water supporting it
try allowing more water into the cistern on a fill by adjusting the water level control
get a plumber in to clean out the sewerage pipes as there appears to be an obstruction in the line
Perhaps it is taking a long time to fill the cistern, take top off and see if it's filling after flushing, if it's slow and pressure is ok it is likely to need a new diaphragm in the filling valve.
well, yes... but apart from providing you with a forum in which to vent your frustration I'm not sure how you think we might help. I have the same problem with a dual flush cistern, but in my case I know that the root of the problem lies in the fact that the soil pipe leading from the bowl has insufficient fall (because the previous owner of my house moved the toilet further from the down pipe). Maybe something like this is contributing to your problem too?
There are some dual flush cisterns where you have to depress one button to reveal a cavity in the second button. Put a screwdriver in that cavity to lever out the second button, then release the first button and prise that out.
Underneath the buttons is a screw which must be unscrewed to release the cistern lid.
Not sure if this will apply to you... but if not, good luck anyway.
i presume with lid of u can flush toilet by pusshing switch with finger if so buttons must be spot on when replacing lid can be adjusted inside systern any probs get back
Thank you for the reply - I did go to a plumbers merchants and they actually did sell compatible valves by Fluidmaster so problem solved
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