Welding or gluing the plastic on the front of a vehicle The is a clean tear from bottom of bumper on driver side up 8 inches. Hasn't worsened. How can I glue it together.

If you need glue that works very well on automotive parts and pieces that are plastic then you should buy J-B Weld Plastic Bonder Adhesive and Gap Filler. Another good glue for plastic car pieces and car parts is also Loctite Plastics Bonding System.

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1. Locate and remove the bolts in the front of the wheel well on the either side of the car using a #1 Phillips ***** driver or an 8 mm socket wrench.
2. Locate the bolts on the bottom of both corners of the bumper and remove them using an 8 mm socket wrench or box end wrench.

Due to the age of the vehicle and the fact that these type of situations usually happen due to physical damage. I would look to a pop riveter with backing washers and a good adhesive, Simply glue it in place, after cleaning both pieces with a solvent such as paint thinner, use tape to hold it in place and then drill it and pop rivet it using backing washers front and back at equal distances for further mechanical strength. Do both ends then the middle and then the middle of those open spaces that are left, depending on the width of the rubber strip you may have to do this again with the remaining undivided spaces.

You didn't say front or rear? But, if rear take the panel out of wall. Take your time, because if you break or tear, parts are expensive.
Usually a plastic shield is not glued or connected. If you can stretch and attach with contac cement, this should work. Or cut a piece of plastic from the hardware store about 1 to 2 inches more than you need and then attach, working from top to bottom. If the car is newer, this sounds like a production problem. Contact a dealer and see what they say.

Hello Bruce...here are the steps to follow per All Data.

Release hood latch and open hood.
Remove the headlamp assemblies.
Hoist vehicle and support with safety stands.
Remove the five push pin fasteners attaching bottom of fascia/air dam to radiator closure panel.
Remove front wheels.
Remove front wheelhouse splash shields fasteners as necessary to gain access to bolts attaching front fascia to fender.
Remove the two bolts and two nuts attaching fascia to the front fenders (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
Disconnect fog lamp wire connectors, if necessary.
Lower vehicle.
Remove two bolts attaching the upper grille support to the headlamp mounting panel at each side of the grille.
Remove bumper fascia from vehicle.
INSTALLATION

Position front bumper fascia on vehicle (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
Install the two bolts attaching fascia to headlamp mounting panel at each side of grille.
Hoist vehicle and support with safety stands.
Install the two bolts and two nuts attaching fascia to the front fenders. The fascia should be flush to fender.
Install front wheelhouse splash shields fasteners.
Install front wheels.
Connect fog lamp wire connectors, if necessary.
Install the five push pin fasteners attaching bottom of fascia to radiator closure panel.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the headlamp assemblies.

The "push pin fasteners" are the pain you are having i believe. They push in, but to get them out you need squeeze them on the back & pull at the same time. If you happen to break a few, you can buy them in various sizes at the auto parts store. I hope this information is helpful, an owners manual will not have any info like this in it.

It is cylinder shaped on the right side or front of the vehicle for side ways mounted engines. Above the oil pan below the manifolds. You will only be able to access it from the bottom of the vehicle.

ford starts with #1 is pass front #2 is 2nd pass from front #3 is 3rd pass front # 4 is forth from pass front now i dont know if it is a v8 or v10 if it is a V8 THEN # 5 IS THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE IF IT IS A V10 THEN #5 IS THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE

Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.

The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort.