Failed hose replaced on my futurmat Ariete, reset the low water safety. Now will not fill automatically, I use front mauual fill each time, what could it be? regards Paul

Verify ambient temperature is above 65 degrees F.

1. Safety> - safety glasses, long sleeves and gloves, (exposure to refrigerant can cause frostbite).

2. Attach hoses to manifold> assembly, (hi, lo, and fill).

3. Remove caps from service ports, (Low press. Larger tube from evaporator to accumulator - passenger side over fender well; High Pressure - smaller tube from evaporator along firewall towards driver's side). Verify service> ports are clean.

4. Attach low press. and high press hoses to proper service ports.

5. Start car>, reset low refrig code, and turn ac on high and fan on high.

6. Read gauges and compare with chart provided with gauge set.

7. If low and high press readings are both low, then system needs recharge.

8. To recharge, attach fill hose to can of R134a and slowly open low press valve>, (NOT HIGH PRESS VALVE), until low press side reads 40 psi.

9. When flow stops and pressures stabilize close valves> and disconnect manifold from service ports and refrigerant can. Replace service port caps.

It depends on the cause of the water pressure issue. I'd first check your incoming water to the washer. Turn off the inlet shut-off valves and disconnect the hoses. Check the hose filters and the inlet valve filters. Remove any debris. Next put a large bucket under the shut-off valves and open them fully for a minute. Check how much water flows into the bucket. If very little water was in your bucket, you'll need to check where the restriction is in your water lines. (The water pressure needs to be sufficient to fill the washer in about 8 minutes. Depending on your home, you may need a professional to check the water at your water connection to the city or at your well pump.) Empty the bucket. Replace your inlet hoses at the valve side and repeat the test. If you are getting low water flow with the hoses in place, replace the hoses. Some hoses have a "anti-flood" feature which restricts the hose if there is a problem. (I've seen the hot water flow rate to the washer significantly decrease due to the hose blocking the flow. The cold water hose was replaced at the same time to avoid it failing in a short time.)

Next check that the drain hose isn't below the level of the water in the washer. This can cause siphoning and empties the washer as fast as it fills.

If the water pressure is still low after testing these items, the problem could be the inlet valves on the washer or the air pressure at sensor that detects the water flow. On some washers, you may be able to remove the debris in the air tube. However, if there is a pinhole, that part will need to be replaced.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Have you checked that the drain hose is not too low?

The hose should be at least 1/2 the height of the appliance to prevent siphoning out. If the waste hose is the right height this will probably be overflow on the pressure switch. These are located inside at the top of the appliance and have a rubber hose coming off them. if a mechanical one (amp tag connectors) they can be blown into to reset, if they are the newer type they can not be blown into to reset.

If working on the appliance please ensure it is unplugged

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

The Error code "nf" is No Fill. Turn off the water at the wall connection and remove your fill hoses at the washer. Inside the inlet to the water valve there are inlet screens. Use a thin knife blade or a scribe on the outside of the screens and remove them. Wash them under slowly running water while rubbing them with your fingers to clean them off. After cleaning reinstall the screens and connect your hoses to the washer.
Next remove the hoses at the wall faucett / hose bibb and check for inlet screens in the hoses. If there are inlet screens in the hoses at the wall connection remove them and clean them. Otherwise reconnect the hoses.. turn on the water... check for leaks and test your machine for proper filling. If it still does not fill or you get the nf code again you most likely have a bad inlet water valve. Either the diaphragm is stuck or... one of the water valve solenoids have failed. The solenoids and water valve assemblies are NOT repairable. IF they fail the only remedy is replacement. Solenoids will read resistance with a meter. The resistance should be the same for both soloenoids. If either one of them reads open the water valve must be replaced.

If the steps above do resolve your problem, respond here and I will help you at that time.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Do you have a sight glass that shows water level in boiler on this loop? If so is it marked where normal water level is supposed to be? There should be a water line connected to boiler with a valve on it. This will be a manually operated valve unless it has auto fill control. Locate this valve and slowly add water until level in sight glass is back where it should be,then shut valve.While you are doing this the boiler should be at operating temperature because hot water expands and you don't want to overfill. There should be a temperature and pressure relief valve on top of your boiler to prevent unsafe conditions but I wouldn't count on it working properly if it is very old. My main concern is for your safety so if you are unsure of something don't do it. If your boiler has a automatic water make-up on it then you need to have a service tech. find out if it's not working,and repair or replace it. I hope this helps you. Thanks

"H" & "F" means no water is coming into the washer, check that your faucets are on, hoses & screens on hoses,if all this is working properly, it could be your water valve or if the washer has water inside and the pump is not pumping it out, for safety reasons the washer will not fill and you will get the codes f h or l d.

sphion effect while the water comes in the water goes out ..because you never said that it overflows,,,so just put your drain hose up the height of the machine before it can go down,,,drain hose to low...onthejob

The tube which feeds the siphon pump cand be swithced to port two . when you remove hose it can be force feed with a turkey baster filled with water. once its primed the first time it should be fine. also if its exposed to cold weather when shipped or in starage it need to be broght to room temperature before priming .

Found These Fault Codes On Internet, Hope This Helps, Daz

ALARM CODES

E00(E00)- Problems with water fill during washing
-Tap closed; solenoid valve, water distributor, wiring ,main PCB, pressure switches

E01(E00)- Problems with water fill during drying
-Tap closed; solenoid valve, wiring , main PCB, pressure switches

E10(E10)- Problems with water drain during washing
-Drain hose kinked, filter blocked, drain pump, water distributor, wiring , main PCB, pressure switches

E11(E10)- Problems with water drain during drying
-Drain hose kinked, filter blocked, drain pump, pressure switches

E20(E20)- Door open
-Cycle in Door delay, wiring , main PCB

E21(E20)- Fault in door delay power triac
-Wiring , main PCB

E30- Fault in electronic pressure switch
-Electronic pressure switch, wiring , main PCB

E31- Fault in electronic pressure switch circuit
-Main PCB (fault in electronic pressure switch circuit)

E32(E10)-Calibration error in electronic pressure switch
-Electronic pressure switch, drain pump, wiring , main PCB, filter blocked

E33- Incongruency between electronic pressure switches and safety switch 1
-Electronic pressure switch, safety pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E34- Incongruency between electronic pressureswitches and safety switch 2
-Electronic pressure switch, safety pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E35- Intervention of anti-overflow pressure switch
-Solenoid valve, water distributor, wiring, main PCB,anti-overflow pressure switch

E36- Water leakage (maximum number of resets exceeded)
-Water leakage, drain hose too low, pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E40- Motor power triac short-circuited
-Main PCB (triac short-circuited)

E41- No signal from tachimetric generator
-Tachimetric generator on motor, wiring, main PCB

E42- Fault in tachimetric generator circuit
-Main PCB (tachimetric generator sensing circuit)

E43- Intervention of motor overload protection
-Motor, wiring, main PCB

E50- Insufficient heating during wash phase
-NTC sensor setting incorrect, heating element, wiring,main PCB

E51- Overheating during wash phase
-Heating element (to earth), main PCB (relays)

E52- Insufficient heating during drying phase
-NTC sensor setting incorrect, safety thermostat,thermostats, drying heater, wiring, main PCB (relays)

E53- Overheating during drying phase
-Drying heater (to earth), main PCB (relays)

E55- Fault in power relay for heating element (K3)
-Safety pressure switch 2, wiring, main PCB- 6 -

E60- Fault in washing NTC sensor
-Washing NTC sensor, wiring, main PCB

E61- Fault in drying NTC sensor(condenser)
-Drying NTC sensor (condenser), wiring, main PCB

E62- Fault in drying NTC sensor(duct)
-Drying NTC sensor (duct), wiring, main PCB

E63- Fault in 1/2 power thermostat
-Drying NTC sensor (duct), 1/2 power thermostat, wiring,main PCB

E70- Power triac to distributor motor short-circuited
-Main PCB (triac short-circuited)

E71- Fault in power relay to distributor loads
-Main PCB (relay open)

E72- No distributor position signal
-Water distributor motor, wiring, main PCB

E73- Incorrect timing on distributor contacts
-Water distributor, wiring, main PCB

E90- Fault in tank fill pump
-Hoses obstructed, tank fill pump, wiring

E91- Fault in tank drain pump
-Hoses obstructed, tank drain pump, wiring

E92- Fault in power triac to tank fill pump
-Tank fill pump, wiring, main PCB

you may likely have a faulty water valve or water is back filling through the waste hose if it is plumbed into the sink. also is the supply water pressure low? it may not be assisting the water valve to shut fully.